Restoring a Used Car the Right Way

If you've bought a 4x4 that's spent time out west, that red dust is in every crevice. Don't just wipe it; you'll scratch the living daylights out of the plastic. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, tried to wipe the door sills and left a million swirl marks. Use a soft detailing brush and a vacuum first, then go in with an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) like Bowden’s Own Agent Orange. It breaks down the clay-heavy dust without you needing to scrub like a madman.

Don't just chuck a 'New Car Scent' tree on the mirror and call it a day. Most used car smells come from the cabin filter. I once had a customer bring in a Golf that smelled like wet dog, turned out the cabin filter hadn't been changed in five years and was full of mouldy leaves. Swap that filter out first (it's usually behind the glovebox), then give the carpets a proper steam clean or a hit with a wet-vac. If it still reeks, an Ozone generator is the only way to go, but be careful with those.

Even if the paint looks okay, run your hand over it. Feels like sandpaper? That's fallout, salt spray, and baked-on iron. Before you even think about waxing, use a clay bar. I personally reckon the clay mitts from companies like Meguiar's are way easier for beginners than the old-school bars. It'll pull all those tiny bits of grit out of the clear coat so your wax actually sticks. Truth be told, skipping this step is why most DIY wax jobs only last two weeks.

Our sun is brutal. If the plastic trim is looking grey and chalky, don't use those greasy 'tyre shine' sprays on the dash, they just attract more dust and reflect the sun into your eyes. Use a dedicated interior protectant with high UV blockers. For the exterior plastics, I usually suggest Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer. It's a bit pricey, but it actually bonds to the plastic rather than just sitting on top of it. One application and she'll be right for a year or more.