Professional Wheel and Tyre Decontamination and Protection Guide

Ensure the wheels and brake rotors are cool to the touch. In Australian summer conditions, never work on wheels that have been driven recently or sitting in direct sunlight. Spraying cold chemicals onto a 60°C+ rotor can cause warping or permanent chemical staining on the alloy finish. Move the vehicle to a shaded, well-ventilated area.

Prepare your cleaning solutions according to the environmental load. For heavy red dust or coastal salt, dilute your APC at a 1:5 ratio in a dedicated spray bottle. Fill your wheel bucket with 15L of water and add 30ml of a high-lubricity car shampoo to act as a lubricant for your brushes.

Wheel cleaners and iron removers are often highly acidic or alkaline and emit strong odours. Wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin from chemical burns and safety glasses to prevent splashback during the scrubbing phase. The sulfur-based compounds in iron removers can be irritating to the respiratory system, so work in an open space.

Before applying water, inspect the wheels for deep gouges or 'kerb rash'. These areas are prone to oxidation once the protective clear coat is compromised. Take note of these spots as they require gentler agitation to avoid flaking the surrounding finish.

Using a pressure washer, thoroughly rinse the wheel, tyre, and wheel arch. Aim to remove as much loose grit, mud, and salt as possible before touching the surface. Focus on the 'barrel' (the inside) of the wheel where the majority of brake dust accumulates. Use a 40-degree nozzle tip to avoid damaging tyre sidewalls.

Apply your APC or dedicated tyre cleaner liberally to the dry or damp tyre sidewall. Allow it to dwell for 60 seconds. You will see the brown 'blooming' begin to run off. This step is critical; if the tyre isn't surgically clean, your tyre dressing will not bond and will 'sling' onto the paintwork later.

Scrub the sidewall vigorously with a stiff-bristled brush. The suds will likely turn brown or orange. Rinse and repeat this process until the suds remain white. This indicates all old dressings, road film, and oxidized rubber have been removed, leaving a clean slate for protection.

Spray a dedicated iron remover onto the wheel faces and barrels. Ensure even coverage. Let the product dwell for 3-5 minutes. You will observe a 'bleeding' effect as the chemical reacts with sintered iron particles, turning purple. This chemical reaction breaks the bond between the iron and the wheel surface.

While the iron remover is dwelling, use a long-reach barrel brush dipped in your soapy bucket to scrub the inner barrel. Work from the top down. The lubrication from the soap combined with the chemical action of the iron remover will safely lift stubborn brake dust without scratching the finish.

Use a soft-bristled detailing brush to clean the wheel face, spoke sides, and lug nut recesses. These areas are intricate and often missed. Ensure you reach into the holes where the lug nuts sit, as salt and moisture trap here, leading to corrosion of the studs.

Thoroughly rinse the entire wheel and tyre assembly. Ensure all purple residue and soap suds are flushed out of the lug nut holes and from behind the spokes. Any leftover chemicals can dry and leave white streaks that are difficult to remove once the wheel is dry.

If the wheel still feels 'sandpapery' to the touch after rinsing, use a clay bar with lubricant on the wheel faces. This removes the final 1% of bonded contaminants. This is highly recommended if you are planning to apply a long-term ceramic coating.

Use a dedicated microfibre drying towel or an air blower to remove all water. Pay special attention to the 'bead' where the tyre meets the rim and the lug nut recesses. Water dripping out later will interfere with the bonding of sealants and tyre dressings.

Spray a 50% Isopropyl Alcohol solution onto a clean microfibre and wipe the entire wheel surface. This removes any leftover surfactants from the soaps or oils from your hands. A 'squeaky' clean surface is essential for the chemical bond of Si02-based protectors.

Apply your chosen wheel sealant or ceramic coating. If using a liquid sealant, apply to a microfibre applicator and wipe onto the wheel face and spokes in even overlapping strokes. Allow it to haze (usually 1-2 minutes depending on humidity) and buff off with a fresh towel. This layer will resist heat up to 300°C.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing to the sidewall using a foam applicator. Avoid solvent-based 'high gloss' silicone sprays, which can accelerate rubber drying in the Australian sun. A water-based dressing provides a natural satin finish and contains UV blockers to prevent future browning.