Professional Show Car Preparation and Paint Perfection

Using a high-CRI LED light, map out the vehicle's defects. Look for 'RIDS' (Random Isolated Deep Scratches), bird drop etching, and water spots. In Australia, water spots are often mineral-heavy due to bore water or recycled water use; identify these early as they may require a dedicated acid-based water spot remover before machine polishing begins.

Before touching the exterior paint, clean the engine bay, door shuts, and fuel flap. Use a 10:1 dilution of All Purpose Cleaner (APC). Use detailing brushes to agitate red dust and grease. Rinse with low-pressure water to avoid electrical issues. This prevents 'drip-down' of dirt onto polished panels later in the process.

Apply an iron fallout remover to dry, cool paint. In the Australian summer, do this in the shade to prevent the chemical from drying on the surface. You will see a purple reaction as it dissolves sintered brake dust. Rinse thoroughly after 3 minutes. Follow with a tar remover on the lower sills to dissolve bitumen melted by hot summer roads.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, glide the bar over the paint in straight lines. This removes embedded contaminants that chemicals cannot reach. The surface is ready when the clay glides silently. This step is critical for show cars to ensure the polishing pads do not pick up grit and scour the paint.

Mask off all rubber seals, unpainted plastic trim, and badges using automotive-grade masking tape. This prevents 'white-out' staining from polishes and protects delicate edges from the high-speed rotation of the polishing pad. In high heat, use premium tape that won't leave adhesive residue.

Always perform a test spot on a 40cm x 40cm area (usually the boot or hood). Start with the least aggressive combination (finishing polish and foam pad). If this doesn't remove the defects, move to a cutting compound. This 'conservative' approach preserves the maximum amount of clear coat, which is vital for long-term UV protection.

Apply 4 pea-sized drops of compound to a microfiber or wool pad. Work a 50cm x 50cm section using slow, overlapping passes (approx. 2cm per second). Use moderate downward pressure. In 35°C+ weather, work smaller sections to prevent the compound from drying out and 'caking' on the panel.

After every section, clean your pad using a pad brush or compressed air. Spent polish and removed clear coat build up quickly; if not removed, they reduce the effectiveness of the cut and can cause 'pig-tail' scratches. Switch to a fresh pad every 2-3 panels to maintain thermal stability.

Switch to a fine foam finishing pad and a dedicated polish. This step removes the 'haze' left by the cutting stage and increases the Gloss Units (GU) of the paint. Use light pressure and higher arm speed. This is where the 'show-car' depth is truly created, refining the surface to a mirror finish.

Spray a 20% Isopropyl Alcohol solution onto a clean microfibre (not the panel) and wipe away all polishing oils. This reveals the 'true' state of the paint. If swirls remain, repeat the polishing. This step is also essential for ensuring a ceramic coating can chemically bond to the paint.

For dark-coloured show cars, use an ultra-fine 'jewelling' paste and a soft black foam pad at the lowest speed setting. This removes the microscopic 'tick marks' and provides the highest possible level of gloss. It is a slow process but separates a standard detail from a show-winning finish.

In Australian summer, work in a climate-controlled garage if possible. Apply the coating to an applicator suede in a cross-hatch pattern. Apply to a small section (30cm x 30cm). Wait for the 'flash' (rainbow effect), usually 30-90 seconds depending on humidity, then buff off immediately with two separate towels.

Remove wheels if possible to clean the inner barrels and brake calipers. Apply a high-temp wheel sealant. Dress the tyres with a water-based, non-sling tyre shine. For show cars, a matte or satin finish on tyres is generally preferred over a high-gloss 'greasy' look.

Use a dedicated glass polish to remove stubborn water spots. Polish chrome exhausts and trim with a fine metal polish and 0000-grade steel wool if heavily oxidised. Clean glass inside and out using a two-towel method (one wet, one dry) to ensure a streak-free finish under show lights.