Professional Paint Correction and Polishing Guide

Start with a thorough wash using the two-bucket method. Apply an Iron Remover (pH neutral) to the dry paintwork to dissolve sintered brake dust and metallic fallout. In coastal Australia, this step also helps neutralise salt deposits. Rinse thoroughly after 3-5 minutes, ensuring the product does not dry on the surface.

Using a clay bar and lubricant, glide the clay over the paint in straight lines. This removes 'above-surface' contaminants like tree sap and stubborn red dust that washing misses. You will feel the surface transition from gritty to glass-smooth. This is vital because any remaining grit will get caught in your polishing pad and scour the paint.

Use automotive masking tape to cover all rubber window seals, unpainted plastic trim, and badges. High-speed polishing pads can easily 'burn' or whiten plastic and rubber on contact. In the Australian sun, these trims are often already brittle; protection here prevents permanent staining from polish residue.

Visually inspect the paint for signs of 'thinness' (e.g., edges where the primer might be showing through). If you have access to a Paint Depth Gauge, measure the microns. Modern Japanese cars often have thin clear coats (80-100 microns total), requiring a conservative approach compared to European marques (120-150 microns).

Never guess the combination. Select a 50cm x 50cm area on the bonnet or boot. Start with the least aggressive combination (Fine Polish + Polishing Pad). Work the area for 4-6 passes. Wipe and inspect with your LED light. Only move to a heavier compound if the defects remain.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Spread it across the pad face with your finger to ensure even coverage. This prevents 'dry buffing' which causes excessive heat and friction, especially dangerous when ambient temperatures are above 30°C.

Divide panels into small manageable sections, roughly 40cm x 40cm. In Australian summer conditions, working larger areas is a mistake as the polish will dry out too quickly, leading to dusting and poor lubrication.

With the machine off, dab the pad across your 40cm section to distribute the product. Set the DA polisher to its lowest speed setting (Speed 1) and make one quick pass to spread the compound evenly before increasing speed.

Increase the machine to Speed 4 or 5. Move the polisher at a rate of roughly 2-3cm per second. Use slow, overlapping horizontal passes, followed by vertical passes (the cross-hatch pattern). Apply only light downward pressure; let the machine's oscillation do the work.

Watch the polish film. It will start as an opaque white slurry and transition to a clear, oily film. This indicates the abrasives have broken down and finished their job. If the product turns to dust instantly, your work area is too hot or you are using too much product.

Switch the machine off while the pad is still on the paint to avoid slinging. Use a clean, short-pile microfibre towel to gently buff away the residue. Avoid circular motions; use straight lines to prevent introducing new micro-marring.

Mist the section with a 20% Isopropyl Alcohol solution. This removes the 'fillers' and oils found in many polishes that can hide remaining scratches. This gives you a 'true' view of the paint's condition. If swirls remain, repeat the cycle.

Every two sections, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out dried polish and spent paint residue from the pad. In 35°C+ heat, pads soften and lose cutting ability. If the pad feels hot to the touch, swap it for a fresh, cool one immediately.

Once heavy defects are removed across the whole car, switch to a finishing pad and fine polish. Use lower machine speed (Speed 3) and no pressure. This 'jewelling' step removes any haze left by the heavy cutting phase and maximizes gloss.

Be extremely careful near panel edges and body lines where paint is naturally thinner. Reduce speed and keep the machine moving. For tight areas like door handles or bumper vents, switch to a 75mm (3-inch) backing plate and pad for better control.

Pull the vehicle into the sun or use a powerful LED light to inspect the entire car from multiple angles. Check for 'holograms' (buffer trails) or missed spots. Once satisfied, perform a final IPA wipe of the entire vehicle to prepare for sealant or coating.