Professional Motorcycle Detailing and Protection Guide (Jan 2026)

Ensure the motorcycle is completely cold to the touch. Applying cold water or chemicals to a hot engine block (especially air-cooled fins) can cause thermal shock, leading to cracked casings or permanent staining of the metal finish. Wait at least 2 hours after the last ride.

Use low-tack automotive masking tape to cover the ignition barrel, air intakes, and exhaust outlets. If you have an aftermarket open-element air filter, wrap it in a plastic bag. This prevents moisture ingress into the fuel system or electrical shorts during the high-pressure rinse phase.

Prepare your buckets using the 'Two-Bucket Method' (one for soapy water, one for rinsing the mitt). Mix your snow foam at a ratio of 1:9 in the cannon. Pre-dilute your All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) based on the level of grease; 5:1 is generally safe for modern engine coatings.

Position the bike on a paddock stand if available to allow the wheels to rotate freely. Work in a shaded area with a surface temperature below 30°C. In the Australian summer, working in direct sun will cause chemicals to flash-dry, leaving permanent chemical etch marks on the paint and metal.

Begin by using a soft brush to knock off loose red dust or sand. Apply a dedicated chain cleaner to the drive chain. Use a 'Grunge Brush' to scrub all four sides of the links. Allow it to dwell for 5 minutes, then wipe away the slurry with a sacrificial microfibre. This prevents grease from splattering onto clean paint later.

Apply a pH-neutral iron fallout remover to the wheels. You will see a purple reaction as it dissolves brake dust. Use a dedicated wheel brush to reach the hubs and behind the brake discs. Rinse thoroughly with a low-pressure stream to avoid forcing water into the wheel bearings.

Coat the entire bike in a thick layer of snow foam. This encapsulates larger grit particles and allows them to slide off the surface without physical contact. Let it dwell for 4-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. This is critical for preventing 'swirl marks' on the fuel tank.

While the foam is dwelling, use a soft boar's hair brush to agitate the 'nooks and crannies': switchgear, radiator fins, fuel cap, and rear shock linkage. This breaks the surface tension of accumulated grime in areas a wash mitt cannot reach.

Using a high-quality microfibre mitt and the two-bucket method, gently wash the bike starting from the mirrors and tank, moving down to the swingarm. Use zero pressure; let the lubricity of the shampoo do the work. Rinse the mitt in the clean water bucket after every panel.

If the paint feels 'gritty' after washing, use a fine clay bar with plenty of lubricant. Slide the clay over the tank and fenders until the surface is glass-smooth. This is essential for ensuring the subsequent sealant bonds properly to the clear coat.

Motorcycles have too many hidden pockets for towel drying alone. Use an electric blower or a vacuum on 'blow' mode to purge water from bolt heads, spark plug holes, and electrical connectors. This prevents the 'weeping' of water later which causes unsightly streaks and corrosion.

For tanks with scuffs from riding gear, use a dual-action polisher with a 3-inch pad and a fine finishing polish. Work in small sections (20cm x 20cm). This removes the micro-scratches that dull the paint's reflection under the harsh Australian sun.

Wipe down all painted and metal surfaces with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any remaining polishing oils or waxes, leaving a 'naked' surface. This is the most skipped step, but it is vital for the longevity of your ceramic protection.

Apply 3-4 drops of ceramic coating to a suede applicator. Wipe onto the tank in a cross-hatch pattern. Wait for the 'flash' (rainbow effect), usually 1-2 minutes depending on humidity, then buff off with a fresh microfibre. This creates a hard, UV-resistant barrier.

Apply a dedicated trim restorer with UV blockers to all unpainted plastics and rubber hoses. Avoid silicone-based 'tyre shines' as they are greasy and can migrate to the tread, causing a loss of traction. Use an acrylic-based dressing instead.

Remove all masking tape. Re-apply a high-quality chain lubricant to the inner side of the chain while rotating the rear wheel. Wipe off any excess to prevent 'fling' onto your freshly detailed rims. Check that all lights and controls are functioning correctly.