Professional Exhaust Tip Restoration and Protection

Ensure the exhaust system is completely cold to the touch. In Australian summer conditions, an exhaust can remain dangerously hot for over two hours after driving. Attempting to apply chemicals to a hot surface will cause flash-drying, potentially etching the metal or creating toxic fumes.

Determine if your tips are stainless steel, chrome-plated, or matte-finished. Use a magnet: most high-quality stainless is non-magnetic or weakly magnetic. Chrome-plated plastic (common on modern SUVs) requires much gentler handling than solid 304 stainless steel.

Use a soft brush or compressed air to remove loose red dust and grit. This is crucial in Australia; if you start scrubbing with red dust present, the silica particles will act like sandpaper, creating deep swirl marks in the metal before you even begin polishing.

If the exhaust tips are close to painted plastic bumpers, use automotive masking tape to protect the surrounding trim. Polishing compounds and steel wool can easily burn or scratch paintwork if your hand slips during the vigorous agitation phase.

Liberally spray the interior and exterior of the tips with your degreaser. Allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. In 40°C heat, you may need to mist the surface with water to keep the chemical active. This softens the hard carbon bonds.

Use your stiff nylon brush to scrub the interior rim where soot is thickest. Use the soft brush for the exterior. Rinse thoroughly with high-pressure water to remove the loosened slurry. You should see the 'true' state of the metal now.

For stubborn carbon that survived the chemical wash, take a piece of 0000 steel wool and lubricate it with a bit of soapy water. Gently rub the affected areas in a back-and-forth motion. Avoid circular motions as they create harder-to-remove light patterns.

Apply a pea-sized amount of metal polish to a microfibre applicator or a piece of 0000 steel wool. Work a 5cm x 5cm section at a time with firm pressure. The polish will turn jet black; this is the chemical reaction removing oxidized metal. Continue until the black residue thins out.

Wipe away the black spent polish with a clean, dry microfibre cloth. Inspect the surface under a bright LED light. If pitting or tea-staining (brown oxidation common in coastal areas) remains, repeat the polishing step.

Switch to a clean microfibre cloth and a fresh dab of polish. Use lighter pressure this time to 'jewel' the surface. This step removes the micro-marring left by the steel wool and brings out the deep, mirror-like clarity in the metal.

Don't forget the first 2-3cm of the inner pipe. While you won't get the whole pipe clean, polishing the visible inner rim provides a professional 'concours' look that separates a basic wash from a professional detail.

Spray 70% IPA onto a fresh cloth and wipe the entire tip. This removes all polishing oils and lubricants. The surface must be 'squeaky clean' for the protective coating to bond properly. If the cloth still comes away black, repeat the wipe.

Apply 4-5 drops of a high-temp ceramic coating to a suede applicator. Wipe onto the metal in even, overlapping strokes. In Australian summer, the flash time will be fast (30-60 seconds). This coating is essential to prevent salt air from reaching the metal pores.

Using a clean microfibre, gently buff the coated surface to remove any high spots or rainbows. The result should be an incredibly slick, high-gloss finish that feels noticeably smoother than bare metal.

Keep the vehicle stationary and the exhaust cold for at least 4 hours (ideally 12-24 hours). Avoid driving or exposing the tips to water during this time to allow the ceramic lattice to fully cross-link and harden.