Professional Clay Bar Treatment for Paint Decontamination

Perform a comprehensive two-bucket wash of the entire vehicle using a pH-neutral shampoo. This removes loose dirt, dust, and road film. Pay extra attention to the lower sills where red dust and tar accumulate. Dry the vehicle completely using a dedicated microfibre drying towel to prevent water spotting, which is common in high-heat areas with hard water.

Position the vehicle in a fully shaded area, such as a garage or under a carport. Never clay a surface that is hot to the touch. If the metal is hot, the lubricant will evaporate instantly, causing the clay to stick and leave streaks (clay galling) that are difficult to remove. Aim for a surface temperature below 30°C.

Cut your 100g clay bar into 4 equal pieces using scissors. Take one piece and knead it in your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. Flatten it into a disc approximately 5cm in diameter. Keeping the other pieces clean and sealed ensures that if you drop the piece you are using, you have fresh backups ready.

Place your hand inside a clean plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the dry paintwork. The thin plastic amplifies the texture of contaminants. If the paint feels gritty or like sandpaper, it requires claying. Check the horizontal surfaces (bonnet, roof, boot) first, as these catch the most fallout and UV damage.

Select a small section to start with, no larger than 40cm x 40cm. Generously spray the clay lubricant over the area. You want the surface to be dripping wet. In Australian summer conditions, you may need to spray more frequently as the heat can cause the lubricant to dry out quickly.

Apply 2-3 sprays of lubricant directly onto the face of the clay disc you flattened earlier. This ensures that the very first contact between the clay and the paint is fully lubricated, preventing initial sticking or marring.

Place the clay disc on the lubricated surface. Using only the weight of your fingertips, glide the clay back and forth in straight, overlapping horizontal or vertical lines. Do not use circular motions, as these can create visible swirl marks if a piece of grit becomes trapped.

As you move the clay, you will initially hear a 'scratching' or 'hissing' sound and feel resistance. This is the clay grabbing onto contaminants. As the section becomes clean, the clay will begin to glide silently and effortlessly. This is your visual and tactile cue that the section is finished.

After every 40cm x 40cm section, flip the clay over and inspect it. You will likely see brown, red, or black specks embedded in the clay. This is the dirt you have successfully removed from your paint. If the clay looks significantly soiled, it is time to fold and knead it.

Fold the clay disc in half so the dirty side is on the inside, then knead it back into a flat disc to reveal a fresh, clean surface. Never use a dirty side of the clay on the paint, as the trapped particles will scratch the clear coat.

Once a section is smooth, use a clean microfibre towel to wipe away the excess lubricant. Buff the area dry and inspect it under a light or in the sun to ensure no clay residue is left behind. The paint should now look noticeably glossier.

Always start at the roof and work your way down to the lower panels. The lower sections of a car (near the wheels) are the dirtiest. By starting at the top, you prevent the clay from becoming heavily soiled early in the process, which reduces the risk of scratching cleaner upper panels.

Clay bars are excellent for removing water spots and 'traffic film' from windscreens and headlights. Follow the same lubrication steps. This will significantly improve wiper blade performance and clarity during summer storms.

For heavy contaminants like dried tree sap or tar, do not press harder. Instead, apply more lubricant and perform more passes with the clay. Patience is key; let the clay mechanically shave the contaminant down layer by layer.

Once the entire car is complete, perform the 'Bag Test' again on various panels. If you find any remaining rough spots, re-lubricate and re-clay those specific areas until the entire vehicle is glass-smooth.

After claying the whole vehicle, it is best practice to give the car a quick rinse with water to ensure all clay lubricant and dislodged particles are completely flushed away before you move on to waxing or sealing.