Professional Clay Bar Decontamination for Harsh Environments

Ensure the vehicle's panels are cool to the touch (ideally below 25°C). In an Australian summer, this usually means working inside a garage or very early in the morning. If the panel is hot, the lubricant will flash (evaporate) too quickly, causing the clay to stick and mar the paint.

Perform a thorough contact wash using the two-bucket method. Use a high-pH 'strip wash' shampoo if you intend to remove old waxes. This ensures no loose dirt particles are trapped under the clay, which would cause deep swirling and scratching during the process.

Spray a dedicated iron remover onto the dry paintwork. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry). Look for the 'bleeding' effect where the chemical turns purple upon reacting with iron. Rinse thoroughly with high-pressure water. This reduces the workload for the clay bar.

Break your 100g clay bar into 3 or 4 smaller pieces. Knead a piece in your hands until it is warm and pliable, then flatten it into a disc roughly 5cm in diameter. Keep the unused pieces in a sealed container with a splash of lubricant to keep them moist.

Place your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and run it lightly over the clean, dry paint. The bag amplifies the texture of contaminants. If the surface feels gritty or like sandpaper, claying is required. Take note of the worst areas (usually the roof, bonnet, and rear bumper).

Generously spray a 40cm x 40cm section with your clay lubricant. You cannot use too much lubricant, but you can definitely use too little. The surface must be 'hydroplaning' to prevent the clay from making direct abrasive contact with the clear coat.

Place the clay disc on the lubricated section. Using only the weight of your fingers (no downward pressure), glide the clay in straight, overlapping horizontal or vertical lines. Never use circular motions, as this can create difficult-to-remove 'pig-tail' scratches.

Listen closely. You will initially hear a 'hissing' or scratching sound as the clay shears off contaminants. As the section becomes clean, the clay will glide silently. Once the resistance and noise disappear, the section is likely decontaminated.

After every 40cm section, flip the clay over and inspect the face. In dusty or coastal areas, you will see brown (dust) or grey (industrial fallout) streaks. This is the contamination you have successfully removed from your paint.

Once the clay face appears dirty, fold the clay in half and knead it until a fresh, clean surface is exposed. Flatten it back into a disc. This 'buries' the grit inside the clay so it doesn't scratch the next panel.

Wipe away the excess lubricant with a clean microfibre towel using light pressure. Ensure no residue remains, as some lubricants can leave a film that interferes with the final 'bag test' or your chosen protection layer.

Re-test the section using the plastic bag method. It should now feel smooth as glass. If any grit remains, re-lubricate and repeat the process with a fresh face of clay.

Use smaller pieces of clay for intricate areas like around door handles, badges, and grill inserts. Contaminants often cluster in these 'eddy' points where wind resistance is lower and dust settles.

You can safely use the clay bar on exterior glass to remove water spots and sap. However, avoid textured plastic trim, as the clay can leave white residue in the pores that is extremely difficult to remove.