Professional Air Vent and HVAC System Detailing (Jan 2026)

Before cleaning, start the engine and test the vent directional controls, fan speeds, and temperature range. Listen for clicking sounds which indicate failing blend door actuators. If the vents are physically jammed by red dust, do not force them; they will require lubrication during the cleaning process.

Locate and remove the cabin air filter (usually behind the glovebox). Inspect the filter for debris; if it contains organic matter or heavy dust, vacuum the housing immediately. Leave the filter out during the cleaning process to allow maximum airflow through the system.

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a shaded, well-ventilated area. In 40°C+ heat, the dash plastics become soft and prone to marking. Open all doors to allow chemical vapours to dissipate quickly. Use a drop sheet over the centre console and gear shifter to catch falling debris.

Mix your pH-neutral cleaner in a foaming pump sprayer. A 1:1 or 1:4 ratio is typically sufficient. Using a foaming trigger prevents liquid from running into sensitive electronics behind the dash, which is a common cause of head-unit failure.

Using compressed air or a high-velocity blower, blast air into the vents while the HVAC system is OFF. This dislodges loose red dust and sand before moisture is introduced. Hold a vacuum nozzle near the vent opening to catch the ejected particles, preventing them from settling elsewhere in the cabin.

Apply a small amount of foaming cleaner directly to your boars hair brush—not the vent itself. Agitate the outer louvres and the internal slats. Ensure you move the vent directional tab to reach the hidden surfaces behind the primary blades where dust accumulation is highest.

For the tight corners and the pivot points of the vent, use the foam-tipped swabs. Dampen the swab with cleaner and run it along the track of each slat. This is particularly important for removing the 'sticky' residue caused by coastal salt air mixing with dust.

If using a steamer, wrap a microfibre towel over the nozzle. Pulse steam into the vent for 2-3 seconds at a time. The heat (approx. 100°C) kills mould spores and melts away stubborn grime. Avoid prolonged heat on one spot to prevent warping the plastic.

Immediately follow steaming or foaming with a dry microfibre towel. Wrap the towel around a slim tool (like a trim removal wedge) to reach deep into the vent throat. Ensuring the area is dry prevents new dust from immediately 'mudding' on the surface.

Open the bonnet and clean the plastic cowl at the base of the windscreen. This is the primary air intake. Remove leaves, twigs, and 'gum nuts' that often trap moisture and cause rot. Flush the area with low-pressure water to ensure the drain holes are clear.

With the cabin filter still removed, turn the AC to 'Recirculate' and full fan speed. Spray a dedicated HVAC disinfectant into the intake (usually located in the passenger footwell). This allows the chemical to coat the evaporator core where odours originate.

Activate your 'Air-con bomb' according to the manufacturer's instructions. Usually, this involves placing the can in the footwell, setting the AC to max cold/recirculate, and closing all doors for 10-15 minutes. This ensures the entire ducting network is sanitised.

Wipe down the inside of the cabin filter housing with a disinfectant wipe. Install the new HEPA/Carbon filter, ensuring the airflow direction arrow matches the vehicle's requirements. A backwards filter will significantly restrict airflow and cause fan strain.

Apply a water-based, non-greasy UV protectant (like Aerospace 303) to the visible vent slats using a clean swab. This prevents the Australian sun from making the plastic brittle, which leads to the louvres snapping during adjustment.

Turn off the AC and open all windows. Run the fan on high for 5 minutes to clear any remaining chemical scents. This 'purging' step is vital for occupant comfort and safety, especially if high-strength disinfectants were used.