Prepping Your Ride for the Australian Winter: Protection That Actually Works

Don't do this in direct sunlight if you can avoid it. In Australia, even a 22-degree autumn day can bake chemicals onto your paint in seconds. Find some shade or wait until the arvo.

Always start with the wheels. They're usually the filthiest part, and you don't want brake dust splashing onto your clean paint later.

Get the hose or pressure washer right up under the sills and arches. If you've been to the beach recently, this is where the salt hides to start rust.

Give the engine bay a light degrease and rinse. Just be careful around the alternator and air intake. A clean engine runs cooler, even in winter.

Open all the doors and the boot. Clean out the leaves and gunk that get stuck in the gutters. If these stay wet through winter, they'll rot your seals.

Cover the whole car in a thick layer of foam. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This softens up the red dust and bird droppings so they slide off without scratching.

Blast the foam off, starting from the top and working down. Pay close attention to the window seals and badges where dirt hides.

Use a high-lubricity soap. Use one bucket for suds and one with plain water to rinse your mitt after every panel. No dramas if it takes a bit longer, just do it right.

Spray an iron remover over the paint and wheels. Let it sit until it turns purple. This dissolves tiny metal shards from brake pads and railway dust that are embedded in your clear coat.

If you've got spots of gum tree sap or road tar from summer roadworks, use a dedicated tar remover now. Don't try to scrub it off with your nail.

While the car is still wet, use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. If you drop the clay bar, chuck it in the bin immediately. It's now a rock. (Made this mistake myself on a black Commodore, never again).

Rinse off any clay residue. Use a big drying towel or a leaf blower to get every drop of water out of the mirrors and vents.

Wipe the whole car down with a 15-20% Isopropyl Alcohol solution. This removes any leftover oils or old wax so your protection can bond directly to the paint.

If using a ceramic sealant like Gtechniq or Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic, apply it panel by panel. Buff it off immediately with a fresh microfibre. Focus on getting even coverage.

Wait about an hour and go again. Two layers of protection are better than one when you're facing three months of frost and salt.

Apply a rain repellent (like Rain-X or a ceramic glass coating) to the windscreen and side windows. It makes a massive difference when you're driving in a winter storm at night.

Apply a trim restorer to all black plastics. This prevents them from fading and cracking when the temp drops at night and the sun hits them the next day.

Put a bit of your sealant on the wheel faces. It makes cleaning brake dust off much easier later on.

Use a water-based dressing. It won't sling down the side of your car and it keeps the rubber from drying out.

Winter means mud on boots. Give the carpets a good vacuum and maybe chuck some rubber floor mats in for the season.