Mastering the Engine Bay Detail

Never, ever spray cold water on a hot engine. You risk cracking the manifold or warping the head. The engine should be cool to the touch, or just slightly warm. If you’ve just driven back from the shops, give it at least an hour.

Pick out the leaves, twigs, and dead bugs by hand. If you've been off-road, use a vacuum or the leaf blower to get the chunky red dust out before you get it wet and turn it into mud.

If you're nervous or working on an older car with dodgy wiring, just pop the negative terminal off. Better safe than sorry.

This is the most important step. Wrap the alternator, any exposed air intakes (especially if you have a pod filter), and the fuse box in foil or plastic wrap. Use painter's tape to seal it up.

Make sure the oil dipstick is pushed in all the way and the oil filler cap is tight. You don't want water in your oil.

Give the whole bay another blast with the leaf blower. Get into the crevices. It’s amazing how much dust hides under the battery tray.

Mist the engine bay with water. Don't use high pressure here. You just want to dampen the surface to help the degreaser work.

Start from the bottom and work your way up. Spray your APC or degreaser liberally over everything. Focus on the greasy areas like the valve covers.

This is where the magic happens. Use your detailing brushes to work the cleaner into the grime. Do the underside of the bonnet first so the runoff doesn't ruin your finished work below.

Use your stiffer brush on the metal parts of the block or any aluminium components that have that white oxidation.

Often overlooked! Scrub the painted sections and gently wipe down the heat insulation pad if it's there. Be careful not to soak the pad as they can get heavy and sag.

Let the product sit for about 3-5 minutes. In an Aussie summer, do this in the shade! If the product dries on the engine, it'll leave nasty streaks.

Rinse from the top down. Keep the nozzle moving and don't linger on electrical connectors. Think of it like a gentle shower, not a blast from a fire hose.

A customer once brought in a Hilux that had been through the Simpson Desert. One pass didn't touch it. If you still see red mud or grease, hit it again while it's wet.

Use your leaf blower to push all the standing water out of the holes. Pay special attention to spark plug wells and the battery terminals.

Hand-dry the remaining spots with your old microfibres. This prevents water spots, which look terrible on black plastic covers.

Carefully take off the foil and plastic wrap. Make sure no water trapped on top of the foil drips onto the parts you were trying to protect.

Reconnect the battery and start the car. Let it idle for 10 minutes. The heat from the engine will evaporate any moisture you missed.

While the engine is warm (not hot), mist your water-based dressing over the plastics and rubbers. This is the secret to that 'new car' look.

After a few minutes, wipe over the plastics with a clean cloth to remove any excess. You want a satin finish, not a greasy mess.