Mastering the Dual Action Polisher for Paint Correction and Protection

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash followed by iron decontamination (using a fallout remover) and a clay bar treatment. This is vital in Australia to remove embedded red dust and coastal salt. If you skip this, you will pick up grit in your polishing pad and create deep 'pigtail' scratches across your entire vehicle.

Dry the vehicle completely using compressed air to blow water out of crevices. Use automotive masking tape to cover all unpainted plastics, rubber window seals, and emblems. DA polishers can quickly burn or discolour textured plastics, and dried polish residue is notoriously difficult to remove from these surfaces.

Position your inspection light at a 45-degree angle to the panel. In the peak of Summer, ensure you are working in a fully shaded, cool environment. Surface temperatures must be below 30°C; if the bonnet is hot to the touch, the polish will dry prematurely, leading to dusting and poor lubrication.

Never guess the combination. Select a 40cm x 40cm area on the bonnet or boot. Start with the least aggressive combination (finishing pad and fine polish). Run one cycle and inspect. If defects remain, move to a more aggressive pad/compound. This 'least aggressive first' approach preserves your clear coat thickness.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Use your finger to spread it evenly across the surface of the foam or microfibre. This ensures that every part of the pad has an abrasive interface with the paint, preventing 'dry buffing' which can cause localized heat damage.

Work in small, manageable sections, no larger than 50cm x 50cm. Working too large an area leads to uneven correction and allows the polish to dry out before it has finished breaking down. Use body lines or tape to define these boundaries clearly.

With the machine off, dab the pad across your 50cm x 50cm section to distribute the product. Set the DA to its lowest speed setting (Speed 1) and spread the polish quickly across the section. This prevents 'sling'—where polish is thrown onto other panels or the windscreen.

Increase the machine speed to 4 or 5. Using moderate downward pressure (roughly 3-5kg), move the polisher in a 'cross-hatch' pattern. Start with horizontal overlapping passes, then switch to vertical overlapping passes. Move the machine slowly—about 2-3cm per second.

Ensure each pass overlaps the previous one by 50%. This guarantees uniform removal of material. If you move too fast, the abrasives don't have time to work; if you move too slow, you risk heat build-up. Maintain a steady, rhythmic pace across the panel.

Watch the polish as you work. It will start as an opaque film, then turn into a clear, oily translucent film. This is the 'working window.' Once it becomes clear, the abrasives have broken down. If it starts to dust or disappear, stop immediately to avoid scouring the paint.

Use a clean, high-GSM microfibre towel to gently buff away the residue. Mist the area with a Panel Prep (IPA solution) to remove remaining oils. Use your LED inspection light to check for remaining swirls. If satisfied, move to the next section; if not, repeat the cycle.

After every single section, use a pad brush or compressed air to 'blow out' the spent polish and dead paint. In the Australian heat, polish dries quickly inside the pad. A clogged pad loses its cutting ability and increases heat, which can lead to the pad delaminating from the velcro backing.

Once the entire car has been compounded (if needed), switch to a soft finishing foam pad and a fine polish. Repeat the cross-hatch process with lighter pressure. This 'jewelling' stage removes any micro-marring from the heavy step and brings out the maximum gloss and depth.

Once all polishing is complete, perform a final wipe down of the entire vehicle with a dedicated Panel Prep. This ensures the surface is chemically bare and ready for your choice of protection, such as a high-quality Australian-made ceramic coating or wax.