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Paint Protection intermediate 11 min read

Keeping Your Snorkel and Roof Rack Looking Mint

Your paint is under constant attack: UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. Protection isn't optional—it's essential.

Most people ignore their snorkel and roof rack until the plastics fade to a chalky grey or the mounting bolts start rusting out. This guide shows you how to deep clean and protect these hardworking accessories from Australia's brutal UV and red dust.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 18 March 2026
Keeping Your Snorkel and Roof Rack Looking Mint

Aussie Conditions

Our intense UV breaks down waxes faster than overseas. Ceramic coatings last longer, but even they need topped up more frequently here.
Quick Summary

Look, we spend thousands on bull bars and lift kits, but the snorkel and roof rack are usually the first things to look 'weathered' because they sit right in the sun's firing line. This deep dive covers everything from getting red dust out of textured plastics to preventing salt corrosion on your rack. It's for anyone who wants their rig to look as good at the servo as it does on the tracks.

01

Why Bother With The Top Half?

Right, let's be honest for a second. Most of us give the car a quick wash, maybe hit the wheels, and call it a day. But if you've got a snorkel and a big platform rack, you're looking at two of the hardest-to-clean parts of the entire vehicle. I learned this the hard way years ago with a black Commodore I’d kitted out with some cheap racks, I ignored them for a summer, and by March, the plastic was so dry it felt like a chalkboard. In Australia, especially as we head into Autumn, we're dealing with the leftovers of a brutal summer. You've likely got baked-on bug guts from a highway run, salt spray if you've been near the coast, and that bloody red dust that seems to find its way into every textured surface. A customer once brought in a 79 Series that had been through the Simpson, and honestly, the snorkel looked like it had been spray-painted orange. If you don't get that dust out properly, it acts like sandpaper, slowly grinding away at the finish every time it rains. After 15 years in the trade, I've seen too many high-end Safaris and Rhino-Racks looking aged well before their time. It’s not just about looks, either. A clogged snorkel head can actually mess with your airflow (though you'd have to have a fair bit of muck in there), and a crusty roof rack is a nightmare for rust and seized bolts. I reckon a proper deep clean once or twice a year is the only way to keep your gear from looking like a sun-bleached skeleton. Truth be told, it's a bit of a pain to get up there, but the result is worth it. Your rig will thank you, and let’s be real, your partner will thank you when they don't get red dust on their hands every time they grab the door handle.
02

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/13
A sturdy step ladder — Don't be a hero and stand on the tyres. I've seen guys slip and take out a wing mirror. Get a proper 3-step ladder.
Soft-bristled detailing brushes — The Boar's Hair ones from Bowden's Own are great. You need something to get into the grooves of the snorkel head.
Pressure washer with a wide nozzle — Keep it on a wide fan. High pressure can blast through old gaskets if you aren't careful.
Dedicated APC (All-Purpose Cleaner) — I'm a big fan of Koch Chemie Green Star or Meguiar's APC. Dilute it 10:1 for this job.
Iron remover — Essential if you've been near trains or heavy industry. It helps break down metallic fallout on the rack.
Microfibre wash mitt — Use one you don't mind getting a bit dirty. Roof racks are filthy.
Non-acidic wheel cleaner — Sounds weird, but it's great for the metal components of the rack to bite through road grime.
Plastic trim restorer/protectant — Solution Finish is the gold standard if it's already faded. For protection, Gtechniq C4 is my go-to.
Synthetic sealant or wax — For the metal parts of the rack. A ceramic spray like Bowden's Bead Machine is easy to chuck on.
Long-reach brush — For getting into the gap between the rack and the roof. Your hands won't fit, trust me.
Compressed air or a leaf blower — To blow water out of the bolt holes so they don't sit there and corrode.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipes — To prep the surface before you put any dressings or coatings on.
Safety glasses — When you're scrubbing a snorkel head above your head, all that muck falls straight into your eyes.
03

Preparation is Key

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Cool Down

Never, and I mean never, wash your car when the panels are hot. If you've been parked in the sun, put the car in the shade for an hour. If you spray APC on a 50-degree snorkel, it'll flash dry and leave white marks that are a nightmare to remove.

02

Remove Accessories

If you've got recovery boards, shovels, or awnings attached, take them off. You won't be able to clean the mounting points properly with them in the way. It's an extra 10 minutes that saves an hour of frustration.

03

Tape Off if Needed

If you're using a restorer like Solution Finish on the snorkel, tape off the paintwork around the base. That stuff stains paint like you wouldn't believe.

04

The Initial Rinse

Give the whole roof and the snorkel a heavy rinse with water. You want to knock off all the loose grit before you start touching it with a brush.

05

Check Your Seals

Quickly check the snorkel intake. Make sure there isn't a massive bird's nest in there (happens more than you'd think) and that the drain valves aren't blocked.

04

The Deep Clean Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Pre-Soak with APC

Spray your diluted APC over the entire snorkel and the roof rack. Let it sit for about 3 minutes, but don't let it dry. This starts breaking down the oils and that sticky gum tree sap.

02

Scrub the Snorkel Head

Use your detailing brush to get into the grate of the snorkel. You'll see brown water start pouring out, that's the red dust. Work in circular motions.

03

Tackle the Snorkel Body

Apply more APC and use a microfibre mitt. Most snorkels have a textured finish that loves to hold onto dirt. You might need a bit of elbow grease here.

04

The Roof Rack Channels

This is where most people fail. Roof racks have T-channels that collect everything. Use a thin brush to sweep out the dirt along the entire length of the rack.

05

Cleaning the Underside

Get your long-reach brush and work it under the rack. There's usually a build-up of leaves and spider webs here. (Watch out for redbacks, they love a good roof rack).

06

Iron Decontamination

Spray the metal parts of the rack with iron remover. If you see purple streaks, it's working. This is crucial for preventing those tiny rust spots you see on powder-coated aluminium.

07

Rinse Thoroughly

Rinse from the top down. Make sure you're getting plenty of water into the rack channels to flush out all the chemicals.

08

Dry with Air

Use your leaf blower or compressed air to blow water out of the snorkel intake and the rack's mounting bolts. Standing water is the enemy.

09

IPA Wipe Down

Once dry, wipe the snorkel and rack with an IPA solution. This removes any leftover soaps or oils so your protection will actually stick.

10

Restore the Plastic

If the snorkel is looking grey, apply Solution Finish with a foam applicator. Work it in well. It’s a dye, not just a dressing, so it’ll last months.

11

Seal the Rack

Apply a spray sealant to the metal parts of the rack. This makes it much easier to wash next time as the dirt won't stick as hard.

12

Protect the Snorkel

Apply a UV-resistant dressing like 303 Aerospace Protectant or a trim coating. This is your sunscreen for the plastic.

13

Check Drainage

Ensure the water dump valves at the bottom of the snorkel air box are clear. Pour a little water in the head to make sure it drains out the bottom correctly.

14

Reinstall Accessories

Chuck your boards and awnings back on. I usually put a tiny bit of anti-seize on the bolts before I put them back in.

Watch Out

When pressure washing near the snorkel head, don't point the wand directly down the intake. Most snorkels are designed to shed water, but a high-pressure blast can bypass the drains and get into your air box. Not a fun way to start the weekend.

The Toothbrush Trick

Keep an old toothbrush in your kit. It's the only thing that really gets the red dust out of the embossed logos on the side of the snorkel or the tiny corners of the rack's mounting feet.

Watch Out

Avoid using cheap, greasy silicone 'tyre shine' products on your snorkel. They look good for five minutes, then they attract dust like a magnet and turn into a sticky brown mess that's twice as hard to clean next time.
05

Keeping It Looking Good

Once you've done the hard yards, maintenance is pretty easy. The main thing is not to let the red dust or salt sit on there for months. After a trip, give the snorkel a quick wipe down with a damp microfibre. I reckon the biggest mistake people make is thinking a ceramic coating on a snorkel is one-and-done. In our sun, even the best coatings need a topper. Every 3 months, give it a quick spray with a UV-protectant. If you've got a powder-coated rack, keep an eye out for chips. If you see a chip, touch it up with a bit of black paint immediately. Once moisture gets under that powder coat, it’ll start flaking off in big chunks. Also, check your bolts! The vibrations from corrugated roads can loosen roof rack mounts. Every time you clean it, just give the bolts a quick 'nipped up' check. It’ll save you a lot of grief (and potentially a lost awning) on the highway. And yeah, that's pretty much it, 15 minutes of maintenance every few weeks will save you a whole day of scrubbing later on.
06

Advanced Techniques: The 'Pros Only' Stuff

If you've got a snorkel that's really far gone, I'm talking grey, rough, and almost furry to the touch, a simple dressing won't cut it. One trick I’ve used on old Safari snorkels is using a Magic Eraser (melamine sponge) with a bit of APC. It's very lightly abrasive and can actually shave off that dead, oxidised layer of plastic to reveal the fresh stuff underneath. Be careful though, don't go too hard or you'll lose the texture. Another pro tip for the roof rack: if you have a lot of wind noise, it’s often caused by the rubber strips in the channels being missing or old. You can buy replacement 'infills' that seal the gaps. While you've got the rack clean, it's the perfect time to replace these. It makes a massive difference to the cabin noise on long drives.
07

What to Buy (And What to Bin)

Look, I’m not sponsored by anyone, but I know what works after 15 years. For the plastic: **Solution Finish** is hands down the best for restoring black trim. Follow it up with **Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer** if you want it to last years, not weeks. For cleaning: **Bowden's Own Orange Agent** is a cracking Aussie product that's great for getting that greasy road film off racks. Don't waste your money on those 'Back to Black' aerosols from the servo. They're mostly mineral oil and will just run down your paintwork the first time it rains, leaving greasy streaks. If it comes in an aerosol and promises a 'showroom shine' on plastic, it's usually rubbish. Stick to the cream or liquid-based protectants.
08

Common Questions I Hear

Can I use a heat gun to restore my snorkel plastic?
Honestly, I wouldn't. While it brings the oils to the surface and looks good instantly, it actually makes the plastic more brittle in the long run. Use a proper restorer instead.
My roof rack is vibrating after cleaning. Why?
You might have moved a wind deflector or left a channel open. Check that all the rubber strips are seated properly and the front deflector hasn't been knocked out of alignment.
How do I get bird poo stains off the matte finish?
Don't scrub it! Soak a paper towel in warm water and APC, lay it over the stain for 10 minutes, and it should just wipe off. Scrubbing matte plastic usually leaves a shiny spot.
Is it safe to go through an automatic car wash with a snorkel?
I’ve seen those big brushes rip the heads off snorkels or bend roof rack mounts. I'd avoid them like the plague. Hand wash only for a kitted-out 4x4.
Will the red dust ever truly come out?
Mostly. The key is multiple 'agitation' steps. You scrub, rinse, and repeat. If it's still orange, the dust has actually stained the plastic, and you'll need a product like Solution Finish to cover it.
How often should I clean under the rack?
At least twice a year. If you live under gum trees, do it every few months or you'll end up with a compost heap on your roof that holds moisture and causes rust.
Can I wax my snorkel?
You can, but it usually leaves white residue in the texture. Use a dedicated plastic sealant or a 'clear' ceramic spray instead.
My rack bolts are rusted shut. What now?
Soak them in WD-40 Specialist Penetrant for 24 hours. If that fails, you'll need the heat torch, but be bloody careful not to melt the plastic feet or the car's paint.

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