Keeping Your Snorkel and Roof Rack From Looking Like a Sun-Baked Mess

What You'll Learn

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.

Quick Summary

Look, we spend thousands on our 4x4 rigs, but most blokes forget about the gear sitting on the roof and the plastic sticking out the side. Between the red dust of the Simpson and the salt spray at the local beach, your snorkel and rack take a beating. This guide covers how to deep clean those awkward spots and, more importantly, how to stop the UV from killing the plastics and powder coating.

The Reality of Summer Detailing in Australia

Right, let's get stuck into it. It is February, it is pushing 40 degrees in the shade, and if you're like me, your rig probably looks like it's been through a cement mixer after a summer of camping. Snorkels and roof racks are the most neglected parts of any 4x4. Why? Because they're hard to reach and they're made of materials that most people don't know how to treat. I learned this the hard way years ago with my first black Commodore. I thought 'she'll be right' and left some bat droppings on the roof for a week in the Brisbane heat. By the time I washed it, the acid had eaten straight through the clear coat. Now, imagine that same heat hitting the porous plastic of a Safari snorkel or the sandy powder-coat of a Rhino-Rack. If you don't stay on top of it, that black plastic turns a nasty chalky grey, and once that happens, you're pushing uphill to get the finish back. A customer once brought in a 79 Series that had been across the Nullarbor and back. The red dust was so ingrained in the textured finish of the snorkel that a normal wash did absolutely nothing. It looked like the plastic had been dyed orange. That's when I realised you need a specific approach for these bits of gear. We aren't just washing a car here; we're doing 'industrial' detailing. In this heat, you've also got to worry about the salt if you've been anywhere near the coast. Salt spray gets into the bolts of your rack and starts the corrosion process before you've even unpacked the Engels. So, grab a cold one, find some shade, and let's walk through how to actually look after this gear so it doesn't look like a piece of sun-bleached driftwood in two years' time.

The Gear You'll Need (Don't Skimp Here)

What You'll Need

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A Sturdy Step Ladder — Don't try to be a hero standing on the tyres. I've seen more blokes slip and dent their panels than I care to count.

Dedicated APC (All-Purpose Cleaner) — Something like Koch Chemie Green Star or Bowden's Own Orange Agent. You need something that cuts through grease but won't kill the grass.

Soft-Bristle Detailing Brushes — The ones with the long handles are gold for getting into the fins of the snorkel head.

Boar's Hair Wheel Brush — Perfect for the textured surface of powder-coated roof racks. It gets into the 'valleys' of the texture.

Pressure Washer — Doesn't have to be a beast, but you need the reach to get under the rack.

Quality Snow Foam and Cannon — I use Bowden's Snow Job. It dwells longer on vertical surfaces like the snorkel.

The 'Big Mouth' Clay Bar or Mitt — Specifically for the top of the snorkel where bugs get baked on.

Iron Remover — Something like CarPro IronX. Essential if you've been near railways or have metallic dust from your brake pads swirling up there.

Microfiber Wash Mitt — One you don't mind getting a bit dirty. Don't use your 'good' paint mitt on the dirty roof rack.

Plastic Restorer/Protectant — Solution Finish is the only thing I trust for faded snorkels. For maintenance, 303 Aerospace Protectant is king.

Ceramic Spray Sealant — Gtechniq C2V3 or similar for the roof rack rails. Makes the next wash ten times easier.

Waffle Weave Drying Towel — Better for textured surfaces than a plush towel which might leave lint behind.

Compressed Air or a Leaf Blower — To get water out of the bolt holes and the snorkel head. Stops those annoying drips later.

Preparation: Setting Yourself Up for Success

Tap each step to mark complete

Find the Shade

Never, ever wash your 4x4 in direct Aussie summer sun. The chemicals will dry on the surface before you can rinse them, leaving permanent spots. If you don't have a shed, wait until the 'arvo' when the sun's low.

Cool the Surface

Give the snorkel and rack a good drenching with cool water. This brings the surface temp down so your cleaners don't flash off (evaporate) instantly.

Clear the Debris

If you've been under gum trees, clear out the leaves stuck between the rack and the roof by hand. Don't just blast them with water or they'll get stuck in your gutters.

Remove Snorkel Pre-Cleaner (If Fitted)

If you've got a cyclone-style pre-cleaner, take it off. It’s easier to clean on the bench than on the car.

Tape Off Sensitive Areas

If you're using a heavy-duty restorer, tape off the paint around the snorkel base. It saves you a massive headache later.

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The Deep Clean: Step-by-Step

Tap each step to mark complete

Initial Rinse

High-pressure rinse to knock off the loose red dust and salt. Start from the top of the rack and work down the snorkel.

APC Pre-Soak

Spray your All-Purpose Cleaner (diluted 1:5 or 1:10) directly onto the snorkel and the rack. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry.

Agitate the Snorkel Head

Use your detailing brush to get into the intake fins. This is where the bugs live. Give it a good scrub.

Scrub the Rack Rails

Use the boar's hair brush on the roof rack. The bristles will get into the textured powder-coat where a mitt won't.

Rinse Thoroughly

Blast all that grime away. You'll likely see brown or orange water running off, that's the outback saying goodbye.

Snow Foam the Whole Rig

Cover the snorkel and rack in thick foam. This provides lubrication for the contact wash and helps pull more dirt out of the pores.

The Contact Wash

Use your dedicated 'dirty' mitt to wash the rack and snorkel. Work in small sections.

Mechanical Decontamination

If the snorkel feels rough like sandpaper, it's got baked-on contaminants. Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water to smooth it out.

Iron Decon (Optional but Recommended)

Spray iron remover on the metal parts of the rack. If it turns purple, it's working. Rinse it off quickly; don't let it sit on the rubber seals.

Final Rinse and Inspection

One last rinse. Check the underside of the rack, people always miss the bottom of the rails.

Dry with Air

Use a leaf blower to blow water out of the snorkel intake and the bolt channels of the rack. This prevents rust and water spots.

Towel Dry

Pat down the surfaces with your waffle weave towel.

Restore Plastic (If Needed)

If the snorkel is grey, apply Solution Finish with a foam applicator. Wipe off the excess after a minute.

Apply UV Protection

Wipe down the snorkel with 303 Aerospace Protectant. This is like sunscreen for your plastic.

Seal the Rack

Apply a ceramic spray sealant to the roof rack rails. This stops the red dust from sticking so hard next time.

Watch Out

Look, I've seen some shockers. Don't use tyre shine on your snorkel. It's silicone-based, it'll attract dust like a magnet, and it'll run down your paint the first time it rains. Also, stay off the roof unless your rack is rated for your body weight. I've seen a mate go straight through a sunroof trying to clean a Pioneer platform. Not a cheap mistake.

Pro Tip: The Red Dust Secret

If you've got that stubborn red dust that just won't budge from the snorkel's texture, use a soft toothbrush and some WD-40. It sounds crazy, but the oil breaks down the dust. Just make sure you wash it off with soapy water immediately after so the oil doesn't degrade the plastic.

Advanced Techniques for the Perfectionists

Right, if you're really serious (or you're getting the rig ready to sell), you can go a bit further. For powder-coated racks that have started to go dull, you can actually use a light finishing polish by hand. Something like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish on a microfiber pad. It won't make it look like a mirror, but it'll remove the oxidation and bring back that deep black look. Another trick I use on high-end builds is ceramic coating the snorkel. I'm talking a proper glass coating like Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer. It's a pain to apply because you have to be clinical with the cleaning first, but it'll protect that plastic from UV for 2 years plus. No more wiping it down every wash. It’s the only way to go if you're living in places like Exmouth or Darwin where the sun is just brutal.

Aftercare and Maintenance

Maintenance is where most people fall down. They do the big clean once a year and then wonder why it looks rubbish by Easter. My rule is: if you've been off-road or to the beach, the rack and snorkel get a rinse the minute you get home. Don't let the salt sit in the T-channels of the rack. Every second wash, I'll give the snorkel a quick wipe with 303 Aerospace. It takes two minutes but keeps the plastic 'fed' and protected from UV. For the rack, just make sure you aren't leaving bird lime (droppings) on there. The powder coating is tough, but it's not invincible. If you notice any chips in the powder coat on the rack, grab a black paint pen and touch them up. If you don't, the salt will get under the coating and start it flaking off in big chunks. (Trust me on this one, I've seen $1500 racks ruined because of one little stone chip).

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a pressure washer on the snorkel intake?

Yes, but don't go nuts. Most snorkels have a water separator, but you don't want to force a high-pressure stream directly down the pipe. Keep a bit of distance.

Is it okay to use a stiff brush on my roof rack?

Only if it's powder-coated. If you've got a cheap painted rack, a stiff brush will scratch it to bits. Stick to soft boar's hair or microfiber.

How do I get bat droppings off without scratching?

Soak a microfiber cloth in warm soapy water and lay it over the dropping for 5 minutes. It'll soften it up so it wipes off without needing to scrub. Don't use a scraper!

My snorkel is already grey. Is it too late?

Nah, usually not. Solution Finish is a dye-based restorer that works wonders. If it's really far gone (turning white and chalky), it might be too brittle to save, but usually, a good restorer will bring it back.

Should I wax my roof rack?

I wouldn't. Wax is a pain to get out of the textured finish. Use a ceramic spray sealant instead; it's much easier to apply and doesn't leave white residue.

Does the red dust actually damage the gear?

It's abrasive. If you leave it there and then put gear on your rack, the vibration will cause the dust to act like sandpaper, wearing down the finish.

How often should I clean the snorkel pre-cleaner?

In summer or dusty conditions, check it every week. If it's half full of dust, it's strangling your engine.

Are all snorkels UV stable?

Most name brands like Safari or TJM are, but the cheap knock-offs from eBay often aren't. They'll go grey much faster, so they need more frequent protection.

Final Word

At the end of the day, a clean rig just runs better. Or at least it feels like it does, right? Don't let the Aussie summer kill your gear. Spend a bit of time in the shade this weekend giving the snorkel and rack some love. Anyway, that's enough out of me. Go give it a crack! And yeah, that's pretty much it.

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