Keeping Your Paint Prime: The Brutal Truth About Exterior Care in Australia

Never, ever wash your car in direct sunlight if you can help it. The water and soap will dry too fast, leaving spots that are a nightmare to remove. If you have to do it outside, wait for the late arvo or early morning.

If you've just come back from a long drive, let the brakes and bonnet cool down. Spraying cold water on hot rotors can warp 'em, and soap on a hot bonnet just bakes on.

Always start with the wheels. Why? Because they're the dirtiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash brake dust and grime all over your clean paint. Use a separate bucket for your wheel brushes.

Walk around the car while it's dry. Look for bird droppings or tree sap. These need extra soaking time. If you've got red dust from a trip out west, be prepared to spend twice as long on the rinse.

Get your buckets filled and your towels ready. There's nothing worse than having a soapy car and realising your drying towel is still in the laundry.

Spray your wheel cleaner on dry wheels. Let it sit for a minute (don't let it dry). Agitate with your brushes, getting into the barrels and around the nuts. Rinse thoroughly.

Blast the whole car with water. Start from the top and work down. Your goal is to remove as much loose grit as possible. Don't forget the wheel arches, that's where the salt and mud hide.

Cover the car in a thick layer of foam. Let it dwell for 5 minutes. This is where you see the dirt literally sliding off. Don't wash it yet; just let the chemicals do the heavy lifting.

While the foam is on, use your soft brush to gently clean around badges, window seals, and the grill. These areas collect 'green' gunk that a mitt misses.

Pressure wash all that foam off. You'll be surprised how much cleaner the car looks already.

Dip your mitt in the soapy bucket, wash a panel (start from the roof), then rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket. This keeps your soap bucket clean. Use straight lines, not circles! (Circles cause those spider-web scratches).

After rinsing the soap, spray an iron remover over the paint. If it turns purple, it's working. Rinse it off after 2-3 minutes. This is vital for cars parked near train lines or industrial areas.

While the car is still wet, use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lube. Gently glide it over the paint. When the surface feels smooth as glass, you're done. Rinse again.

Lay your large microfibre towel over the bonnet and pull it towards you. Don't 'scrub' the car dry. Use a leaf blower or dedicated car dryer for the mirrors and crevices to stop those annoying drips later.

If the paint looks a bit dull, use a light hand polish like Autoglym Super Resin Polish. It'll fill minor marks and prep the surface for protection. If you've got real scratches, you'll need a machine, but that's a whole other story.

Apply your sealant or wax. If using a spray sealant, do one panel at a time. Buff off with a fresh, clean microfibre. This is your shield against the Aussie sun.

Clean the windows with a dedicated glass cleaner (Stoner Invisible Glass is my go-to). Apply a trim restorer to any black plastics to keep them from turning grey and chalky.

Apply your tyre dressing with an applicator pad. Less is more here. Let it soak in for 20 minutes before driving to avoid 'sling' on your paintwork.

Open the doors and wipe down the sills and the inside of the fuel door. It's the small details that make the difference.

Grab a fresh microfibre and walk around the car under a good light (or the sun). Look for any leftover wax or streaks. Job done.