Keeping Your Paint Prime: Real-World Protection Tips

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with those cheap 'turtle' waxes from the servo. In 40 degree heat, a standard carnauba wax literally melts off the car in about three days. If you want real protection, you've gotta go for a ceramic sealant or a proper coating. I'm a big fan of Bowden’s Own Bead Machine for a quick DIY fix, or Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light if you're serious. It actually bonds to the paint so the red dust doesn't stick as hard.

Made this mistake myself on a black Commodore years ago, never dry-wipe dust off your car. That red outback dust is basically tiny shards of glass. If you've just come back from a trip, use a pressure washer first. I learned the hard way that even a 'soft' microfibre will swirl your paint to hell if there's dust trapped underneath. Use a heavy snow foam to lift the grit before you even touch it with a mitt.

A customer once brought in a white Prado with 'permanent' yellow spots. Turns out bat droppings sat on the bonnet for a week in the sun. Aussie bat and bird muck is incredibly acidic. If you see it, get it off immediately. I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a clean rag in the glovebox for this exact reason. (Your partner will thank you when you're not cursing at the paint later).

If you live near the coast, salt spray is your worst enemy. It gets into the door jams and the seals. I reckon the best thing you can do is a weekly high-pressure rinse, making sure to hit the wheel arches and underbody. Salt and humidity are a killer combo for rust, even on modern rigs.