What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I've seen some absolute horror stories in my 15 years as a detailer, usually right after a long summer. Between the brutal UV hitting the dash and that fine red dust getting ground into the seat bolsters, Aussie leather takes a beating. This guide is all about giving your interior a bit of love so it stays soft and doesn't start cracking like a dry creek bed. Whether you're dailying a LandCruiser or keeping a weekend cruiser mint, this is the proper way to do it.
Why Your Seats are Screaming for Help
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Stage
Park in the shade
Never, ever work on hot leather. If the car's been sitting in the sun, the pores are open but the product will dry way too fast. Get it in the garage or under a carport and let it cool down for an hour.
The Deep Vac
Chuck the brush attachment on your vac and go to town on the seams. This is where that red dust and beach sand sits. If you don't get it out now, you'll just be rubbing it into the leather like liquid sandpaper.
The 'Mate' Test
Check for any tears or loose stitching. If you've got a rip, be careful not to get too much liquid in there or it can rot the foam underneath.
The Main Event: Cleaning and Conditioning
Section it off
Don't try and do the whole car at once. Work one seat at a time, or even just the base then the backrest. It keeps you focused.
Apply Cleaner to the Brush
Don't spray the cleaner directly onto the seat. Spray it onto your horsehair brush first. This prevents 'spotting' where the cleaner might leave a mark if it sits too long in one spot.
Agitate Gently
Work the brush in small, circular motions. You're looking to create a light lather. This lifts the oils and dirt out of the grain. A customer once brought in a Range Rover that looked 'clean', but after 30 seconds with a brush, the foam came up grey. That's the hidden grime.
Wipe Away the Gunk
Use a damp microfibre towel to wipe away the dirty foam. Don't let it dry on the seat! Use a second, dry towel to buff it dry immediately.
Check the Stitching
If you've got white or contrast stitching, use that toothbrush to make sure no dirt or cleaner is trapped in the threads.
Apply the Conditioner
Once the seat is clean and bone dry, put a small amount of conditioner onto a microfibre applicator pad. Less is more here, you aren't icing a cake.
Massage it in
Work the conditioner into the leather. I reckon the best way is to use overlapping circles. Pay extra attention to the bolsters where you slide in and out of the car.
Let it Soak
Give it about 10-15 minutes to absorb. In our summer heat, it might soak in faster, but don't rush it. This is where the hydration happens.
The Final Buff
Take a clean, dry microfibre and wipe off any excess. If the leather looks greasy or shiny, you've used too much or didn't buff it enough. Real, healthy leather should have a nice matte or 'satin' finish.
Repeat for the rest
Go through the same process for the passenger seats and the rear. Don't forget the leather on the door cards too!
Watch Out
The Sunscreen Factor
Watch Out
Keeping it Mint
The Hot Towel Trick
Common Questions
Can I use baby wipes on my leather?
My seats are 'vegan leather', do I do the same thing?
How do I get the 'new car' smell back?
Is it worth getting a ceramic coating for leather?
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