Keeping Your Engine Bay Muck-Free

Never, ever wash a stone-cold engine or a boiling hot one. If it's cold, the grease is thick and won't budge. If it's 40 degrees outside and you've just come off the freeway, you'll crack a manifold or spot the metal. I usually start the car, let it run for about 2-3 minutes until it's just warm to the touch, then shut it off. That's the sweet spot for the degreaser to work its magic.

Modern cars have pretty good weather sealing, but I still don't trust 'em. I learned this the hard way when I drowned the alternator on a black Commodore back in the day, spent the whole arvo trying to dry it out with the missus's hairdryer. Grab some cling wrap or a plastic shopping bag and chuck it over the alternator, the air intake, and any exposed fuse boxes. Use a rubber band to hold it tight. It takes two minutes and saves you a massive headache.

Don't waste your money on those cheap, nasty aerosol degreasers from the servo that smell like kerosene. They're rubbish and they perish your rubber. I'm a big fan of Bowden’s Own 'Orange Agent' or Meguiar’s Super Degreaser. They’re pH-balanced and won't eat your aluminium bits. For the really stubborn grease, I use a stiff-bristled brush to give it a bit of a scrub before I even think about touching the hose.

When it's time to rinse, leave the pressure washer in the shed. You don't want to force water into electrical connectors. Just use a garden hose on a light shower setting. Once you're done, use a leaf blower or some compressed air to get the water out of the spark plug holes and connectors. If you leave water sitting there, it'll cause a misfire, and you'll be scratching your head for hours. (Trust me on this one, I've been there).