What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you've shelled out a couple of grand for a professional coating, or spent a whole weekend sweating in the shed doing it yourself, you want it to last. Most people think ceramic means 'maintenance free' but honestly, that's the biggest load of rubbish in the industry. This guide is for the Aussie car owner who wants to keep that glass-like finish for the full five or nine years the bottle promised, despite our brutal sun and red dust.
The Truth About Ceramic Maintenance
The Essential Kit
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation: Setting the Scene
Find the Shade
Never wash a coated car in direct sunlight. If the panels are hot to the touch, the soap and water will dry too fast and leave streaks or spots. Wait until the arvo or do it early morning.
The Wheel First Rule
Always start with the wheels. They're the dirtiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash muck onto your clean paint. Give them a good spray with wheel cleaner and a scrub.
Gather Your Gear
Get your buckets ready, your foam cannon mixed, and your towels laid out. Nothing worse than having a soapy car and realizing you forgot your drying towel in the house.
Inspect for 'Gifts'
Check for bird droppings or tree sap. These need extra attention during the pre-soak so we don't scratch the coating trying to remove them later.
Set Up Your Buckets
Fill one with soapy water and one with plain water (the rinse bucket). Put your grit guards in both.
The Maintenance Wash Procedure
Dry Pre-Rinse
Blast the car with water to get the heavy grit and dust off. If it's been a dusty week, take your time here. Don't touch the paint yet!
Snow Foam Bath
Cover the whole car in a thick layer of snow foam. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This breaks down the road film safely.
Agitate the Details
While the foam is dwelling, use your soft brush to gently clean around badges, window trims, and the fuel door.
Rinse Thoroughly
Pressure wash the foam off, starting from the top and working down. Pay attention to the wheel arches and door gaps.
The Two-Bucket Contact Wash
Dunk your mitt in the soap, wash a panel (start at the roof), then rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket before going back for more soap. Use zero pressure, let the mitt do the work.
Quarterly Chemical Decon
Every 3 months, after your contact wash but before drying, spray an iron remover over the paint. Let it sit for 3-5 mins (it'll turn purple). This dissolves the metal particles that clog the coating.
Final Deep Rinse
Wash away every trace of the chemical decon. This stuff stinks like rotten eggs, so make sure it's all gone from the nooks and crannies.
Drying with Care
Lay your large microfibre towel flat on the bonnet and pull it towards you. Don't scrub. For the sides, just pat it dry.
Blow Out the Gaps
Use a leaf blower (or the 'air dry' setting on your vac) to get water out of the mirrors, door handles, and lights. Saves those annoying drips later.
Apply the Ceramic Topper
While the paint is cool, spray a ceramic detailer (like C2V3) onto a clean microfibre and wipe on, then buff off with a second dry microfibre. This refreshes the slickness.
Glass and Trim Check
Clean your windows with a dedicated glass cleaner. If you have plastic trim, make sure no ceramic topper has streaked on it.
Tyre Dressing
Apply a water-based tyre shine. Avoid the greasy silicone stuff, it'll just flick up onto your clean coating the moment you drive off.
Pro Tips from the Shop Floor
Watch Out
The 'In-Between' Care
Advanced: Dealing with Water Spots
Common Questions I Get Asked
Can I wax over my ceramic coating?
Does the coating mean I don't have to dry my car?
How often should I do a full decon wash?
Can I use a clay bar on a ceramic coating?
My coating has stopped beading, is it gone?
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