What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I’ve been detailing cars for over 15 years now, and I’ve seen some absolute shockers. From people using kitchen detergent (don't do it!) to blokes scrubbing their dirty 4x4 with a sponge they found in the back of the shed. This guide is for anyone who wants their daily driver or weekend toy to look mint without spending a fortune at a pro shop. We're going to cover everything from dealing with that stubborn red dust to getting rid of bat juice before it eats through your bonnet.
Why Your Current Wash Routine Might Be Killing Your Paint
The Gear You Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
Find the Shade
Never wash a car in direct sunlight if you can help it. The water and soap will dry too fast and leave spots that are a nightmare to get off. If you have to do it outside, wait until later in the arvo when the sun isn't so fierce.
The Finger Test
Touch the panels. If they're hot enough to fry an egg, give them a good soak with the hose first to cool them down. Splashing cold water on a boiling hot ceramic-coated car can be a bit dodgy sometimes.
Pre-Rinse Everything
Blast as much loose dirt, salt, and dust off as you can. Pay extra attention to the wheel arches and underbody if you've been near the beach.
The Step-by-Step Method
Wheels First
Always start with the wheels. They're usually the filthiest part. Use your dedicated wheel bucket and brush. If you do them last, you'll just splash brake dust back onto your clean car.
Snow Foam (The Fun Part)
If you've got a foam cannon, coat the car and let it dwell for 5 minutes. This softens up the bug guts and bird droppings. Don't let it dry, though! If you don't have foam, just a good soak with the hose will do.
The Two-Bucket Setup
Fill one bucket with water and soap, and the other with just plain water. This is the 'Two Bucket Method'. It's the only way I'll wash any car, whether it's a daily or a Ferrari.
Top to Bottom
Start at the roof. Gravity is your friend here. Work your way down so the dirt flows onto the dirty bits, not the clean ones.
The Wash Stroke
Don't go in circles! Use straight lines. If you do happen to pick up a bit of grit, a straight-line scratch is much easier to polish out than a circular swirl mark.
Rinse the Mitt Constantly
After every panel (or half a panel if it's a big ute), dunk your mitt in the rinse bucket. Give it a good rub to get the dirt out, then back into the soapy bucket. Keep that mitt clean!
Detailing the Nooks
Use your little detailing brush to get around the window seals, badges, and grill. It's the little things that make it look like a pro job.
Final Rinse
Give the whole car a thorough rinse. I like to take the nozzle off the hose for the final pass, this lets the water 'sheet' off the paint, which makes drying a whole lot easier.
The Big Dry
Drape your large drying towel over the bonnet and just pull it towards you. Don't scrub! Most scratches happen during drying, so be gentle. (I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, never again).
Door Jams and Fuel Cap
Open your doors and wipe the water out of the jams. If you leave it, it'll just drip out and leave streaks later. (Your partner will thank you for not leaving puddles on the garage floor).
Watch Out
Dealing with Red Dust
The Finish Line
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I use the local self-serve car wash brush?
How often should I wash my car?
Is snow foam really necessary?
What's the best way to get bugs off the front?
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