What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, most blokes spend hours polishing their bonnet but completely ignore what's happening underneath. If you're hitting the beach this summer or planning a trek through the red centre, that's a recipe for disaster. This guide covers how to properly flush out the muck and apply protection that actually lasts in our 40 degree heat. It's for anyone who wants to keep their rig rust-free, whether it's a brand new 300 Series or an old faithful Hilux.
Why Bother With the Underbelly?
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Key
Park on a hard, flat surface
Concrete is best. If you do this on grass, you're just creating a mud bath and you won't be able to see what's coming off the car.
Let the engine cool
Don't go spraying cold water on a boiling hot gearbox or exhaust after a long run. Give it an hour to settle down.
Gather your lighting
It's dark under there. Grab a decent LED work light so you can actually see the red dust hiding in the nooks.
The Step-by-Step Clean and Protect
The Initial Rinse
Start by giving the entire undercarriage a heavy rinse with plain water. You're just trying to knock off the loose 'easy' muck first.
Apply Degreaser and Salt Neutraliser
Mix up your salt neutraliser in a foam cannon or sprayer. Coastline dwellers, don't skip this. Cover everything from the bullbar to the tow bar.
Agitate the Grime
If you've got thick cakes of mud (especially after a trip to the Cape or similar), use your brush. Pay attention to the wheel arches and the top of the chassis rails.
The Deep Flush
Use the underbody water broom. Run it back and forth slowly. I usually spend at least 15 minutes just on this. Keep going until the water runs clear. If it's still brown, there's still dirt.
Clean the Drainage Holes
Check the little drain holes in the chassis and sills. A customer once brought in a Ranger that was 'sloshing'. The drains were plugged with red dust and the sills were full of water. Poke them clear with a bit of wire.
Dry it Thoroughly
This is where people mess up. You can't put a sealant over wet metal. Use a leaf blower or compressed air to get the water out of the crevices. Leave it in the sun for a bit.
Inspect for Rust
Now it's clean, look for any surface rust. If you find some, hit it with a wire brush and some rust converter before moving on.
Apply the Protection
Grab your Lanolin spray or sealant. I reckon Lanolin is great because it's 'self-healing' and won't crack. Spray a light, even coat over the chassis, suspension components, and floor pans.
Avoid the No-Go Zones
Don't get your sealant on the brake rotors, the exhaust (it'll stink and smoke), or any drive belts. If you do, wipe it off immediately with some brake cleaner.
Wipe Down Overspray
Check your paintwork. Sometimes the mist drifts up. Give the lower panels a quick wipe so the sealant doesn't attract dust on your clean paint.
Watch Out
The Red Dirt Secret
Maintenance and Aftercare
The Sprinkler Trick
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I just use WD-40?
Will this void my warranty?
How do I get the smell of Lanolin off my hands?
Should I get a professional electronic rust unit?
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