What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you're just washing your car with a sponge and a bucket of soapy water, you're only doing half the job. This guide is for the Aussie car owner who wants to step up their game and actually protect their investment from the harsh elements we deal with every day. I'm going to walk you through exactly how I've been doing paint deco for over 15 years, from chemical iron removers to the clay bar process, so you don't end up trashing your clear coat.
The Real Truth About Rough Paint
The Essential Gear List
What You'll Need
Preparation: Don't Skip This
Find the Shade
Never, ever do a full decontamination in direct Aussie sun. The chemicals will dry on the paint and cause staining that is a total pain to remove. Early morning or late arvo is best.
The Pre-Rinse
Blast the car down with water to remove loose dirt. If you've got a foam cannon, use it now. We want to get as much 'easy' dirt off as possible so we aren't rubbing it into the paint later.
Clean the Wheels First
Wheels are usually the filthiest part. Clean them before the body so you don't splash wheel grime onto clean paint later. Use your iron remover here too.
The Contact Wash
Perform a thorough two-bucket wash. You aren't trying to decontaminate yet, just getting the surface film of dirt off. Work from the top down.
Inspect the Surface
While the car is still wet, run your hand (inside a plastic sandwich bag) over the paint. If it feels bumpy, you've got work to do.
While you're here...
The Full Decontamination Process
Chemical Iron Removal
On a clean, wet car, spray your iron remover over the entire vehicle. Focus on the lower panels and the rear, where brake dust and rail dust accumulate most.
The 'Bleeding' Phase
Wait 3-5 minutes. You'll see the product turn purple as it reacts with iron particles. Do not let it dry! If it starts to dry, mist it with a bit of water.
Thorough Rinse
Blast the iron remover off completely. Be thorough around window seals and door handles where it likes to hide.
Tar Removal
Dry the lower panels quickly and spray your tar remover on any black spots. Let it sit for a minute, then wipe away with a sacrificial microfibre.
Re-wash the Areas
Give the areas you used tar remover on a quick wash to neutralise the chemicals.
Prepare your Clay
If using a clay bar, cut it into 3 or 4 pieces. Knead one piece into a flat disc about the size of three fingers.
Lubricate Heavily
Spray your clay lube onto a 40x40cm section of the paint. You want it dripping wet. No such thing as too much lube here.
The Clay Motion
Gently glide the clay over the lubricated area using horizontal or vertical straight lines. Never use circular motions.
Listen and Feel
You'll hear the clay 'scratching' at first. That's the contaminants being pulled out. When the clay glides silently and smoothly, the section is done.
Check the Clay
Look at the bottom of the clay bar. If it's brown or grey, fold it over and knead it to a clean surface. If you drop it on the ground, chuck it away. It's dead. Don't risk it.
Wipe and Move On
Wipe the section dry with a clean microfibre and move to the next panel. Work from the roof down to the dirtiest sections at the bottom.
Glass and Lights
Don't forget you can clay your windows and headlights too! It makes water bead off glass amazingly well.
Final Rinse
Once the whole car is clayed, give it one last rinse to get rid of any leftover lubricant residue.
The Drying Phase
Dry the car thoroughly using your large microfibre towel and maybe a dedicated car blower if you've got one for the cracks.
Panel Prep Wipe
Use an IPA spray or a panel prep to wipe down the car. This removes any leftover oils from the clay lube, leaving the paint truly 'naked'.
Watch Out
The Baggy Test
Advanced Techniques: Synthetic Clay
What I Use and Why
Aftercare: Protecting the Work
Common Questions I Get Asked
How often should I decontaminate my car?
Will claying remove my scratches?
Can I use the same clay on my wheels?
Is it safe for ceramic coated cars?
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