What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you've ever run your hand over a freshly washed car and it still feels 'crunchy', you've got contamination. This guide is for anyone who wants to actually protect their paint rather than just slapping wax over the top of dirt. I'm going to walk you through the chemical and mechanical steps I use in my shop to get that paint back to a factory-smooth finish, especially after a rough Aussie summer.
Why Bother with Decontamination?
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
Get out of the sun
I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore years ago, if the panels are hot, your chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streaks. Find some shade or wait until later in the arvo.
The initial rinse
Blast off all the loose grit, sand, and dust. If you've just come back from the beach or the outback, spend extra time in the wheel arches and lower sills.
The contact wash
Do a proper two-bucket wash. We want the car clean, but not necessarily dry yet. We're removing the 'surface' dirt so the decontamination chemicals can actually reach the paint.
The Step-by-Step Decon Process
Iron Decontamination
While the car is still wet, spray your iron remover over the paint. Focus on the wheels, the boot, and the bonnet. These are the hotspots for industrial fallout and brake dust.
Wait for the 'Bleed'
Let it sit for 3-5 minutes. You'll see it start to turn purple, that's the chemical reacting with the iron. It looks like the car is bleeding. Don't let it dry! If it starts to dry, mist it with a bit of water.
Rinse thoroughly
Blast every bit of that purple stuff off. Be thorough around the window seals and door handles where it likes to hide.
Tar and Sap Removal
Dry the lower sections of the car and look for black spots (tar) or sticky yellowish blobs (sap). Dab your tar remover on a cloth and gently wipe these areas. Give it a minute to dissolve the gunk, then wipe away.
Prep the Clay
Take your clay bar and knead it until it's soft and flat. If you're using a clay mitt, just make sure it's clean and wet.
Lubricate like crazy
Spray your clay lube generously on a 40x40cm section. Never, ever rub clay on dry paint. It'll mar the finish faster than you can say 'no dramas'.
The Claying Motion
Use light pressure and move the clay in straight lines (back and forth, then up and down). You'll hear a 'shhh' sound, that's the clay hitting the grit. When the sound stops and the clay glides silently, that section is done.
Check the Clay
Keep an eye on the clay. When it looks dirty, fold it over to a clean side. If you drop it on the ground, chuck it in the bin immediately. Don't try to clean it, it's a goner. (Learned that lesson the expensive way).
Rinse and Dry
Once you've done the whole car, give it one final rinse to get rid of the lube residue. Dry it off with a clean, plush microfibre drying towel.
The Plastic Bag Test
Put your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and run it over the paint. The bag amplifies any tiny bits you missed. If it feels like glass, you've nailed it.
Watch Out
Pro Tip: The 'Glass' Trick
Watch Out
What Happens Next?
My Honest Take on Clay Mitts
Common Questions
How often should I do this?
Will claying remove my scratches?
Can I use dish soap as clay lube?
My iron remover didn't turn purple, is it broken?
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