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Paint Protection beginner 3 min read

How To Get Your Exhaust Tips Shining Like New

Your paint is under constant attack: UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. Protection isn't optional—it's essential.

Dull, blackened exhaust tips can ruin the look of an otherwise spotless car. Here is how to cut through the carbon soot and heat staining using the right gear for Aussie conditions.

D"M
Dave "Davo" Mitchell Off-Road & 4WD Specialist
| Updated: 27 February 2026
What You'll Learn
How To Get Your Exhaust Tips Shining Like New

Aussie Conditions

Our intense UV breaks down waxes faster than overseas. Ceramic coatings last longer, but even they need topped up more frequently here.
Quick Summary

Look, there is no point spending all arvo washing and waxing your pride and joy if you leave the exhaust tips looking like they have been dragged through a coal mine. Whether you're dealing with red dust from a trip out west or just standard city soot, getting that chrome or stainless steel to pop makes a massive difference. This is a quick run-through on the best way to tackle them without scratching the life out of the metal.

01

Why Bother With The Tips?

Most people ignore the exhaust because it's 'dirty anyway', but honestly, it's the finishing touch. If you've got a nice V8 or even a sporty hatch, those tips are a focal point. Over time, that carbon soot bakes on thanks to the high Aussie summer temps, and if you live near the coast, salt air will start pitting the metal before you know it. I once had a customer bring in a top-of-the-line HSV that looked mint, but the tips were so neglected I had to spend two hours just on the rear end. Don't let it get to that point.

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Tip 1: Never Polish a Hot Pipe

Right, first things first. Don't go near the exhaust if you've just pulled into the driveway after a long run. With our Feb heat hitting 40 degrees, that metal stays scorching for ages. I learned this the hard way when I melted a microfibre cloth onto a polished tip years ago, absolute nightmare to get off. Wait until it's cool to the touch.

Tip 2: The 'Wheel Bucket' Rule

Treat your exhaust like your wheels. Use a separate bucket and a different mitt or brush than what you use on your paint. The soot on an exhaust is basically abrasive grit. If you use your main wash mitt, you'll pick up nasty particles and swirl your paintwork next time you wash the bonnet. Not worth the risk, mate.

Tip 3: Chemical Decontamination is Your Friend

Before you start scrubbing, chuck some iron remover on there (something like Bowden’s Own Wheely Clean or Gtechniq W6). It helps break down the metallic fallout and baked-on brake dust that ends up at the back of the car. Let it dwell for a few minutes but don't let it dry in the sun. It'll save you heaps of elbow grease.

Tip 4: Use 0000 Steel Wool (Sparingly!)

If the soot is really caked on, your standard cloth won't touch it. I reckon the best tool is '0000' grade super-fine steel wool. It has to be 'four zeros' though. Anything coarser will scratch the metal. Use it with a bit of soapy water or metal polish as a lubricant. It'll cut through the grime in seconds. I used this trick on a neglected LandCruiser that had been through the red dust of the Flinders Ranges and it brought the chrome back to life beautifully.

Tip 5: Seal It Up

Once they're shiny, don't just leave them. Apply a high-temp wax or a ceramic sealant. It makes the next wash ten times easier because the soot won't stick as hard. My go-to is a bit of Gtechniq C5 or even just a quick wipe with a ceramic spray sealant. It protects against the salt spray if you're living near the beach.
02

The Bare Essentials Gear

Watch Out

Do not use steel wool or abrasive polishes on matte black or powder-coated exhaust tips. You'll ruin the finish instantly and there's no fixing it. For those, just use soapy water and a soft cloth (trust me on this one). Also, keep the polish off your plastic bumper trim, it'll leave white stains that are a pain to get out.
03

Common Questions

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