How to Get Rid of Tiny Rust Spots and Iron Fallout

If you try this in the direct 40-degree sun, the chemical will dry in seconds and potentially stain your trim. Do it in the garage or wait until the arvo when the sun's dropped.

Give the car a good rinse with cold water. You want the panels cool to the touch. If the water's steaming off, it's too hot.

Give the car a thorough wash with your soap and mitt. We want to remove the surface dirt, mud, and salt so the iron remover can get straight to the metal particles without having to fight through a layer of grime.

You don't need it bone dry, but if it's soaking wet, the iron remover will just slide off. Give it a quick once-over so the chemical can actually dwell on the paint.

Start from the bottom and work your way up. Spray a generous mist over one or two panels at a time. Don't do the whole car at once unless you're lightning fast.

After a minute or two, you'll see the liquid start to turn purple or red. This is the chemical reacting with the iron. It's actually pretty satisfying to watch.

If the car is really bad, I sometimes use a damp microfibre to gently spread the product around. Don't scrub, just move it.

Before the product dries, blast it off with your pressure washer. Make sure you get it out of all the nooks and crannies like door handles and badges.

On cars that have never been done, you might need a second hit. If it still feels like sandpaper after you've rinsed it, give it another go.

Give the whole car one last massive rinse to ensure no chemical is left behind. This stuff is acidic-adjacent and you don't want it sitting in your wheel nuts.