How To Clean Your Steering Wheel (Without Ruining It)

I see this all the time and it drives me bonkers. People chuck a pack of baby wipes in the glovebox and think they're doing the leather a favour. They aren't. Most wipes contain chemicals that are way too harsh for automotive leather. They'll strip the protective coating off and leave the leather feeling dry and 'crispy' after a few months. Use a dedicated interior cleaner or a very mild soapy water solution and a soft brush. My go-to is Bowden's Own Leather Love or just a diluted APC (All Purpose Cleaner) if it's really disgusting.

Don't just spray cleaner directly onto the wheel. You'll get overspray all over your dash and instrument cluster, which is a pain to clean off. Spray your cleaner onto a high-quality microfibre cloth first. Work in sections. If the wheel is really caked in filth (common on work utes coming off a dusty site), use a soft-bristled detailing brush to agitate the cleaner. This lifts the red dust and oil out of the grain rather than just wiping it around. I learned this the hard way when I tried to just wipe down a Hilux wheel and ended up just smearing mud everywhere.

The stitching is usually the first thing to fail on a steering wheel. If you go too hard with a stiff brush, you'll fray the threads. After 15 years doing this, I've found that using a damp microfibre and 'pinching' the cloth around the rim works best to get into those tight spots without hurting the thread. If you're dealing with Alcantara or suede, for heaven's sake, be gentle. Those need a dedicated cleaner and a very soft brush or you'll ruin the pile forever.

Some people reckon a shiny wheel looks clean. Truth is, a clean leather wheel should be matte, not shiny. If it's reflecting the sun into your eyes while you're driving, it's still oily. After cleaning, wipe it down one last time with a fresh, dry microfibre to pick up any remaining residue. It’ll feel much better in the hand too, no dramas with it slipping through your fingers when you're turning a corner.