What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I’m going to be honest with you, your steering wheel is likely the grossest part of your car. After 15 years in the trade, I’ve seen wheels so caked in skin oils and 'dead person' (gross, I know) that they look like they’ve been dipped in wax. This guide is for anyone who wants that fresh, matte feel back in their hands, whether you're dealing with a leather-wrapped daily or a plastic work truck. We'll cover the right gear and techniques for Aussie conditions, from coastal salt to that red dust that gets everywhere.
Why Your Wheel Feels Like a Deep Fryer
The Gear You Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Getting Ready
Park in the shade
Never, ever clean your interior in direct sunlight. If the leather is hot, the cleaner will flash (dry out) before it can actually lift the dirt. Plus, you’ll end up with streaks that are a nightmare to get off.
Vacuum the column
Chuck the vacuum over the steering column and behind the wheel first. There's no point cleaning the wheel if you're just going to kick up dust from the dash onto your wet surface.
Test a small spot
Always test your cleaner on the back of the wheel first. I once had a customer bring in an old Jag where the dye just wiped right off because a previous 'pro' had used the wrong chemicals. Better safe than sorry.
The Step-by-Step Clean
Apply cleaner to the brush
Don't spray the cleaner directly onto the wheel. If you do, it'll fly everywhere, into the instrument cluster, down the stalks, and onto your pants. Spray a bit onto your soft brush instead.
Work in small sections
I usually split the wheel into four sections (like a clock: 12 to 3, 3 to 6, etc.). Start at the top where the sun hits it hardest.
Agitate gently in circles
You aren't scrubbing a barbecue plate here. Let the bristles and the chemical do the work. You'll see the foam go from white to a nasty grey or brown. That's the good stuff (well, the bad stuff leaving).
Focus on the stitching
This is where the real grime lives. Use the brush to really get into those threads. If the stitching is white or red and looks black, it's just dirt. Spend an extra minute here.
Wipe away the slurry
Use a clean microfibre to wipe away the foam before it dries. Use a 'roll and lift' motion rather than just pushing it around.
Check your work
Once it dries (which should be fast), the leather should look 'flat' or matte. If there are still shiny patches, that's remaining grease. Give it another go.
Clean the buttons
Use a slightly damp (not wet) microfibre for the steering wheel controls. Don't get liquid inside the switches unless you want a very expensive trip to the sparky.
The rear of the wheel
Don't forget the back of the rim and the paddle shifters if you've got 'em. Your fingers spend a lot of time back there.
Final damp wipe
Take a separate cloth with just a tiny bit of water and wipe everything down. This removes any leftover surfactants from the cleaner.
Apply protection
If it's leather, apply a tiny amount of leather conditioner. Look, I wouldn't bother with the cheap greasy stuff from the servo. Use something that dries touch-dry so your hands don't slip.
Watch Out
The 'Steam' Trick
Keeping it Fresh
Common Questions
Can I use baby wipes on my steering wheel?
My leather is peeling, can I clean it?
How often should I deep clean the wheel?
What about Alcantara or Suede wheels?
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