What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all seen it, that shiny, greasy-looking steering wheel that feels a bit tacky on a hot arvo. Most people think the leather is just 'worn out', but usually, it is just buried under a decade of skin cells and sunscreen. This guide covers how to deep clean leather, suede, and plastic wheels using gear you can grab at the local shops. Whether you're dealing with red dust from a trip up north or just daily grime, I'll show you how to do it properly.
The Dirtiest Seat in the House
What You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Getting Ready
Park in the shade
Never clean your interior while the car is sitting in the sun. The chemicals will dry too fast and leave streaks. Find a nice spot in the carport or wait until the arvo when it cools down.
The 'Dry' Dust
Take your vacuum and go over the wheel and the steering column. If you've been out in the red dust, this is vital. If you add liquid to red dust immediately, you just make mud that stains the stitching.
Cover the Dash
Chuck a clean towel over the instrument cluster and the steering column. You don't want cleaner dripping into your stalks or behind the glass of your speedo.
The Deep Clean Process
Test a small spot
Always start on the back of the wheel where you can't see it. Make sure the cleaner doesn't pull the dye out of the leather. If the cloth stays relatively clean (aside from dirt), you're good to go.
Apply cleaner to the brush
Don't spray the wheel directly! Spray your brush or your cloth. This stops 'overspray' from landing on your GPS screen or gauge cluster. (Learned that lesson the expensive way on a Merc once).
Work in sections
Break the wheel into four quarters. Start at the top. Use light, circular motions with the brush. You aren't trying to scrub a hole in it; you're just letting the bristles agitate the dirt out of the grain.
Check the lather
The cleaner should start to foam up a bit. If the foam looks brown or grey, congrats, that's the years of 'hand funk' finally lifting off.
Wipe away the grime
Use a damp microfibre to wipe away the dirty suds. Don't let them dry back onto the wheel or you'll have to start again.
The Stitching Trick
Stitching is usually where the red dust hides. Use a soft toothbrush and a bit more cleaner here. Go gently so you don't fray the threads.
The Buttons
For the volume and cruise control buttons, use a slightly damp cloth only. Don't get liquid inside the switches or you might find your horn going off at 2am. No dramas, just be careful.
Initial Dry
Go over the whole wheel with a fresh, dry microfibre. It should look 'matte' now. If it's still shiny, it's still dirty. Leather is naturally matte; the shine is just grease.
Repeat if necessary
If you've got a particularly nasty wheel (looking at you, tradie utes), you might need a second pass. Usually, the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions need the most work.
Condition (Leather only)
Apply a tiny amount of leather conditioner to a microfibre and wipe it on. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then buff it off with a clean cloth. This stops the Aussie sun from turning your wheel into a dried-out apricot.
Watch Out
Dealing with Suede and Alcantara
Watch Out
Keeping it Fresh
Common Questions
Can I use baby wipes?
My wheel is peeling, can I fix it?
How do I get red dust out of the cracks?
The stitching is dirty but the leather is clean. What now?
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