How to Clean and Protect Your Caravan or Camper

What You'll Learn

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.

Quick Summary

Look, we've all been there, coming back from a big trip with the van looking like it's been through a war zone. Whether it's the red dust from the Oodnadatta Track or salt spray from a week at the coast, leaving that muck on there is a recipe for disaster. This guide is for anyone who wants to get their rig back to showroom nick without spending three days doing it. I'll show you the gear I use and the shortcuts I've picked up over 15 years in the trade.

Why It's Not Just a Quick Wash

Right, so you've just spent three weeks living the dream, but now your caravan looks like a lamington rolled in red dirt. Most blokes reckon they can just hit it with the pressure washer at the local servo and call it a day. Truth is, caravan surfaces, whether they're aluminium, fibreglass, or composite, are a lot more sensitive than your car's paint. I learned this the hard way when I first started out. I used a heavy-duty degreaser on a customer's older van and it completely dulled the gelcoat. I had to spend two days buffing it back to life (at my own expense, mind you). Especially now it's Autumn, you've got that lingering summer heat and the UV is still brutal. If you've got bird bog or crushed bugs baked onto the front by the sun, they'll eat into the finish faster than you'd think. We need to get that stuff off properly without scratching the living daylights out of the panels.

The Right Gear for the Job

What You'll Need

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A decent extendable wash brush — Look for soft hog hair or flagged synthetic. Don't use those cheap ones from the bargain shop; they're basically wire brushes.

Two 15-litre buckets — One for soapy water, one for rinsing your brush. Trust me, it stops you rubbing dirt back onto the van.

PH-Neutral Snow Foam or Wash — I'm a big fan of Bowden's Own Nanolicious or Meguiar's Gold Class. Avoid dish soap, it strips everything.

Microfibre wash mitt — For the lower sections and windows where you can reach by hand.

A dedicated bug remover — Autoglym Active Insect Remover is a ripper for those baked-on grasshoppers.

Large microfibre drying towel — Don't use a chamois; they drag dirt. Get a big 'Twisted Loop' drying towel.

A sturdy ladder — With rubber feet so you don't mark the driveway or the van.

UV-Rated Sealant — Something like Gtechniq C2V3 or a good spray wax to handle the Aussie sun.

Setting Yourself Up for Success

Tap each step to mark complete

Find some shade

Never wash a van in direct sunlight if you can help it. The water dries too fast and leaves spots. If you've got no choice, work in small sections or do it first thing in the morning.

Seal it up

Check every window, hatch, and vent. There's nothing worse than finishing a wash only to find the missus's pillow is soaked because you left a skylight cracked open.

The 'Pre-Rinse' is king

Don't touch the van yet. Use a hose or pressure washer to knock off the loose red dust and grit. If you start scrubbing now, you're just using that dust as sandpaper.

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The Detailed Wash Procedure

Tap each step to mark complete

The Dirty Bits First

Start with the wheels and the drawbar. Use a separate bucket for this. Most caravans use steel or alloy wheels that get caked in brake dust and road grime. Give them a good scrub with a stiff brush.

Bug Pre-Treatment

Spray your bug remover on the front nose cone. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes but don't let it dry. This softens up the organic matter so it slides off later.

Snow Foam (Optional but Recommended)

If you've got a foam cannon, use it. Cover the whole thing in thick suds and let it dwell. It's the best way to lift that fine red dust out of the crevices.

Top-Down Approach

Start with the roof. It's the hardest bit and usually the dirtiest with bird droppings and sap. Use your extendable brush and plenty of soapy water.

The Two-Bucket Method

Dunk your brush in the soapy water, scrub a panel, then rinse it in the clean water bucket before going back for more soap. This keeps your wash water clean.

Watch the Seals

When washing around windows and hatches, don't blast the water directly at the seals. Aim downwards. Those rubber seals can be surprisingly easy to bypass with a high-pressure jet.

Rinse as You Go

Don't wait until the whole van is done to rinse. Rinse each side as you finish it to prevent soap drying and streaking on the panels.

The Final Rinse

Give the whole thing a final flood rinse with low pressure. This helps the water sheet off, making drying a whole lot easier.

Drying

Use your big microfibre towel. Pat it dry rather than rubbing. If you leave it to 'air dry' in the Aussie sun, you'll get water spots that are a nightmare to remove.

Window Care

Most caravan windows are acrylic (plastic), not glass. Don't use Windex! It'll craze the plastic over time. Use a dedicated plastic cleaner or just a clean, damp microfibre.

Watch Out

Be bloody careful with the solar panels on the roof. Don't use abrasive cleaners or hard brushes on them. If they're covered in salt or dust, they won't charge worth a damn. Just use plenty of water and a soft cloth. Also, never walk on the roof unless you're 100% sure it's a reinforced 'walk-on' roof. I've seen plenty of blokes put a foot through a sandwich panel, it's an expensive mistake.

Pro Tip: Beating the Red Dust

If you've been out west and that red dust is stuck in every seal, use a soft paintbrush and a vacuum cleaner while the van is dry before you even start washing. Once that dust gets wet, it turns into mud and hides in the corners forever. Vacuuming it out dry is the secret trick of the pros.

Don't Forget the Awning

The awning is the most neglected part of any camper. A customer once brought in a beautiful Jayco where the awning was so moldy it looked like a science experiment. If you've rolled it up wet, you're asking for trouble. Unroll it completely. Give it a gentle scrub with a very mild soap solution (nothing harsh or you'll strip the waterproofing). Rinse both sides and, this is the important bit, let it dry completely in the sun before you roll it back up. If you're near the coast, salt gets trapped in the roll and eats the aluminium tube. Give it a fresh water rinse every time you come home from the beach.

Protection and Aftercare

Now the van is clean, don't just leave it naked. The Aussie sun will oxidise fibreglass and fade your decals in a single season. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with a traditional paste wax on a caravan; it takes too long and it's a back-breaker. I reckon a high-quality spray sealant is the way to go. You just spray it on a wet or dry panel and wipe it off. It adds a layer of UV protection and makes the next wash ten times easier because the dirt won't stick. Do this every 3-4 months. Also, check your silicone seals while you're at it. If they're cracking or peeling, get some Selleck's or similar and touch them up. Prevention is cheaper than a leak repair, believe me.

Common Questions

Can I use a pressure washer?

Yes, but keep your distance. Stay at least 30-50cm back. If you get too close to decals or seals, you'll peel them right off. I've seen it happen to a brand new Snowy River van, not a pretty sight.

How do I get black streaks off?

Those are usually from the rubber seals on the roof. Don't use abrasive 'Gumption'. Use a dedicated black streak remover or a bit of diluted APC (All Purpose Cleaner) and a soft cloth.

Is it okay to wash the undercarriage?

Absolutely. In fact, it's vital if you've been on the beach or salty roads. Give the chassis and suspension a massive spray down with fresh water to stop rust in its tracks.

What's the best way to clean the flyscreens?

Take them off if you can, and use a soft brush with some soapy water. If they're fixed, just a light vacuum with the brush attachment does the trick.

Final Word

It's a big job, but doing it yourself saves you about 400-500 bucks that a pro would charge. Plus, it gives you a chance to spot any damage before it becomes a major problem. Take your time, stay hydrated (maybe have a cold one ready for when you finish), and your rig will stay looking mint for years. Anyway, that's enough from me. Give it a crack this weekend and see how you go. No dramas!

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