Getting Your Car Ready For Sale: The Detailer’s Secret to Cashing In

Never, ever wash a car that's been sitting in the 40-degree Aussie sun. The chemicals will dry instantly and leave spots. Find some shade or do it early in the morning.

Empty the car completely. I mean everything. Throw out the old receipts, the spare thongs in the back, and the half-empty water bottles. A buyer needs to imagine their own stuff in there.

Spray your iron remover on the wheels while they are dry. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes (don't let it dry) and watch it turn purple. Blast it off with the pressure washer.

A dirty engine says 'I haven't looked after this car'. Cover the alternator with some foil, spray APC on the greasy bits, agitate with a brush, and rinse gently. Don't use high pressure here.

Open all the doors and the fuel flap. Use APC and a brush to get the gunk out of the hinges. This is where buyers look to see if you're a 'neat freak' or not.

Coat the whole car in foam. This is crucial in Australia because our dust is basically tiny rocks. Let it dwell for 5 minutes to soften everything up.

Use the two-bucket method. One with soapy water, one with clean water. Wash from the top down. Rinse your mitt in the clean water bucket after every panel.

Once rinsed, spray the paint with iron remover again. If you've been driving near train lines or have metallic brake pads, this will pull the embedded metal out of the paint.

While the car is still wet, use a clay mitt or bar with plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine). Run it over the paint until it feels smooth as glass. This makes the polish work 10x better.

Use your dedicated drying towel. Don't forget the wing mirrors and the boot lip, water always hides there and drips out later, ruining your polish.

Use painter's tape to cover black plastic trim and rubber seals. If you get polish on these, it turns them white and looks rubbish. (Trust me, it's a pain to get off).

If you've got deep scratches or heavy oxidation, use a cutting compound on your DA polisher. Work in small 50x50cm sections. Don't rush this.

Switch to a finishing pad and polish. This is what brings out that 'wet look' shine. This step is what gets you the extra $1,000 on the sale.

Use an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) mix to wipe down the panels. This removes the polishing oils so your wax or sealant can actually stick to the paint.

Apply your wax or sealant. In the Aussie heat, I reckon a synthetic sealant lasts longer, but a carnauba wax looks better for photos. Take your pick.

Go hard on the carpets. Use a stiff brush to loosen the dirt while you vacuum. Move the seats all the way forward and back to get the hidden bits.

Wipe down everything with an interior detailer. Avoid 'Armor All' style greasy shines; they look cheap. Use a matte finish for a modern, clean look.

If you have leather, use a dedicated cleaner then a conditioner. Our sun dries leather out until it cracks. Soft, matte leather feels premium to a buyer.

Clean the windows twice. Nothing ruins a test drive like a smeary windscreen in the afternoon sun. Use a 'waffle weave' towel for the best results.

Don't use those hanging trees. Use an odour neutraliser or a subtle 'new car' spray under the seats. It should smell clean, not like a chemical factory.

Apply your tyre shine. Wipe off the excess so it doesn't sling onto your freshly polished paint when you drive to meet the buyer.

If you've got chrome exhaust tips, hit them with some metal polish. It's a small detail that says 'enthusiast owner'.

Check for any wax residue in the cracks or missed spots on the glass. This is your 'quality control' check.