Getting the Red Dust and Salt Off Your 4x4

Never wash a car that's been sitting in the sun or just come off the highway. If the bonnet is hot, the soap will dry instantly and leave spots that are a nightmare to get off. Park it in the shade or wait for the arvo.

If the car is covered in thick, dry red dust, I sometimes use a leaf blower or compressed air to get the bulk of it out of the door jams and engine bay before I even touch it with water. Turning dust into mud just makes more work.

Take off the maxtrax, the shovel, and if you've got a roof rack bag, chuck it in the garage. You won't believe the amount of salt and dirt that hides under these things.

Chuck the rubber mats out on the driveway. They'll need a proper scrub on their own.

Check for any bird nests or clumps of spinifex grass near the exhaust. It's a fire hazard, especially in the heat.

Always start from the bottom. If you wash the top first, you'll just splash mud back up onto the clean paint. Use your underbody water broom and spend at least 20 minutes under there. Focus on the inside of the chassis rails where the sand likes to sit.

Use a heavy-duty degreaser in the arches. If you've been in red mud, you might need a stiff brush to agitate it. Don't forget the back of the wheels.

Cover the whole car in snow foam. Let it sit for 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This is called 'dwell time'. It lifts the grit off the paint so you don't scratch it when you use the mitt.

Pressure wash the foam off, working from the top down. Pay attention to window seals and the gap between the tray and the cab.

Now you actually touch the car. Use your wash mitt and the two-bucket method. One bucket has your soap, the other has clean water to rinse the mitt after every panel. This ensures you aren't rubbing dirt back onto the car.

I don't reckon you should blast your engine with high pressure. Use a gentle mist and some APC. Cover the alternator and any exposed air intakes with a plastic bag first.

After rinsing, feel the paint. If it feels gritty, use an iron remover spray. This will turn purple as it reacts with the metallic particles from your brake pads or red dust.

If the paint still feels rough, use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This pulls out the 'embedded' outback grime that a wash won't touch.

Use the big microfiber towel. Don't rub, just lay it flat and pull it towards you. Then use the blower to get water out of the lights and mirrors.

Use a dedicated glass cleaner. If you've got salt streaks, a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water works wonders (just don't get it on the paint).

Blow out the dust with compressed air first. Then vacuum. Use a damp microfiber for the dash. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with those greasy 'protectant' sprays, they just attract more dust next time you're offroad.

Apply your paint sealant. In the Aussie March sun, I prefer a ceramic-based spray like Gtechniq C2V3. It's easy to apply and gives great UV protection.

Wipe down the inside of the doors. Apply some silicone spray to the rubber seals to keep them from drying out and cracking in the heat.

Apply a water-based tyre shine. Avoid the solvent-based ones, they can actually dry out the rubber over time, especially in our climate.

Walk around with a torch. Check for any missed mud in the bumpers or any new stone chips that need a touch-up pen before they rust.