What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we’ve all been there where you wash the car on a hot arvo and the sun bakes those mineral deposits on before you can even grab a towel. I once spent six hours chasing spots on a black Land Cruiser because the owner used a bore-water hose, never again. This checklist covers how to tackle those marks safely before they etch deep into your paint.
The Essential Gear
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Pre-Start Checklist
What You'll Need
The Removal Process
Targeted Application
Apply a small amount of water spot remover to your applicator. Work in a small 40x40cm section. Don't go 'cowboy' and spray the whole bonnet at once.
Dwell Time
Let it sit for 30-60 seconds. You want the acid to break down the minerals (calcium/magnesium) without drying out. If it starts drying, add more product immediately.
Light Agitation
Gently work the product in circular motions. I've found that 'scrubbing' doesn't help, it's a chemical reaction, so let the product do the heavy lifting.
Neutralise and Rinse
Wipe the area with a damp microfibre or rinse with a hose. This stops the chemical reaction so it doesn't eat into your clear coat.
The Clay Bar Stage
If the spots are stubborn, use a clay bar with plenty of lube. This pulls out any remaining mineral 'nubs' that the chemical might have missed.
IPA Wipe Down
Spray your IPA mix and wipe clean. This removes any oils from the spot remover so you can see if the marks are actually gone.
Re-Protect
Since you've just stripped everything off the paint, chuck a layer of sealant or wax on. Personally, I reckon a ceramic sealant is best for coastal areas.
Final Inspection
What You'll Need
Watch Out
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