What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all seen it. You're walking through the shopping centre car park and half the cars have headlights that look like they've been scrubbed with a brick. Between our brutal Aussie UV and the constant sandblasting from red dust, factory clear coats just give up the ghost. This guide is for anyone who wants to stop squinting at night and get their lights looking factory-fresh without spending hundreds on replacements.
Why Your Lights Look Like Garbage
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Prep is Everything
Wash the area
Give the lights and the surrounding panels a proper wash. You don't want a grain of red dust getting caught under your sandpaper and leaving a massive gouge in the plastic.
Mask it up
Double-layer your painter's tape around the headlight. I've seen blokes take the skin off their guards because they were 'sure' they wouldn't slip. Trust me, you'll slip. Tape it up thick.
Check the damage
Run your hand over the light. If it feels like sandpaper, that's heavy oxidation. If it's just a bit hazy on the inside, you're out of luck, that usually means the seal has gone and moisture is getting in.
The Dirty Work: Step-by-Step
Soak your paper
Chuck your sandpaper in a bucket of water for 10 minutes before you start. It makes it more pliable and less likely to clog up.
The 800 Grit Stage
Start with the 800. Spray the light down and sand in horizontal lines. Keep it wet! You'll see gross yellow slurry coming off. Keep going until the entire light looks like a uniform, milky white. This is the scary part where it looks worse before it gets better.
Change Direction with 1500
Wipe the light clean. Now take your 1500 grit and sand vertically. Changing direction helps you see when you've sanded out the scratches from the previous grit. If you see horizontal lines, keep going with the vertical sanding.
Refine with 2000
Repeat the process, going back to horizontal. The plastic should start to look a bit more translucent now. Don't rush this. If you miss a spot here, it'll show up at the end.
The Final Sand (3000)
This is where the magic starts. Use the 3000 grit with heaps of water. By the time you're done, the light should look almost clear when wet.
Dry and Inspect
Dry it off completely. It should look like frosted glass. If you see any patchy yellow spots or deep scratches, you need to go back a step or two. Be honest with yourself here; don't be lazy.
Compound and Buff
Apply a few pea-sized drops of compound to a microfibre or a foam applicator. Use plenty of elbow grease and buff the light in circular motions. You'll see the clarity snap back into place. It's a real 'eureka' moment.
IPA Wipe Down
Wipe the light down with your alcohol mix. This removes any oils from the polish. If the surface isn't surgically clean, your sealer won't stick, and it'll peel off in a month.
The Money Shot: UV Protection
Apply your UV coating or sealant. If it's a wipe-on liquid, use a steady hand and don't go back over areas you've already touched. Let it cure in the shade. Honestly, I reckon this is the most satisfying part of the whole job.
Watch Out
The 'Inside Job' Myth
Watch Out
Keeping Them Mint
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a drill with a buffing pad?
How long will this last?
Should I sand in circles?
What if my headlights are cracked?
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