Deep Cleaning and Restoring Steering Wheels

Determine if your wheel is genuine leather, synthetic (vinyl/vegan leather), or Alcantara/Suede. Genuine leather feels cool and has irregular pores; synthetic often feels more 'plastic' and uniform. Alcantara requires a completely different, low-moisture approach to avoid matting the fibres.

Ensure the steering wheel is cool to the touch. If the car has been sitting in the sun, run the air conditioning for 10 minutes or move to a shaded area. Cleaning a hot surface causes chemicals to flash (evaporate) too quickly, potentially causing spotting or uneven chemical burns.

Use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment to remove loose red dust, sand, or crumbs from the stitching and the gaps where the buttons meet the wheel. This prevents you from rubbing abrasive grit into the leather during the wet cleaning phase.

Identify any sensitive electronic buttons, paddle shifters, or touchscreens on the wheel. If you are a beginner, use low-tack painter's tape to mask off these areas to prevent liquid ingress into the steering column or button housings.

Do not spray cleaner directly onto the wheel. Spray your pH-neutral cleaner into a foaming dispenser or directly onto your horsehair brush. Applying foam instead of liquid allows for a longer dwell time and prevents the liquid from soaking into the stitching or electronic internals.

Divide the wheel into four quadrants (12 to 3, 3 to 6, etc.). Work on one quadrant at a time. Use light, circular motions with the horsehair brush. You should see the foam turn from white to a muddy grey or brown as it lifts oils and outback dust.

Stitching often holds the most bacteria and sweat. Use a soft-bristled detailing brush to gently agitate along the seam lines. Be careful not to use excessive force, which can fray the threads, especially on older vehicles with UV-weakened stitching.

Before the foam dries, use a clean, damp microfibre towel (using distilled water) to wipe away the emulsified dirt. Use a 'roll and lift' motion rather than scrubbing. Check the towel; if it comes away dirty, repeat the agitation step on that section.

For wheels with heavy 'shine', wrap a microfibre towel around a steam cleaner nozzle. Pulse steam through the towel onto the leather for 2-3 seconds per area. The heat opens the pores and the towel absorbs the deep-seated sebum. Warning: Do not hold in one spot for more than 3 seconds.

Dampen a microfibre towel with a tiny amount of IPA or interior cleaner. Wrap the towel over a finger or a detailing swab to clean between buttons. Ensure no liquid drips into the gaps. This removes the 'sticky' feeling from frequently used controls.

Often overlooked, the rear of the steering wheel and the stalks (indicators/wipers) collect significant dust. Clean these using the same foaming method but with a dedicated microfibre to reach the awkward angles behind the spokes.

Use a fresh, dry microfibre towel to buff the entire wheel. Ensure all moisture is removed from the stitching and crevices. The leather should now look uniform and matte. If any spots appear shiny, they still contain oil and require another cleaning pass.

Apply a pea-sized amount of leather sealant or UV protectant to a foam applicator pad. Work it into the leather thoroughly. In the Australian climate, look for products with 'SPF' or 'UV Blockers' to prevent the sun from drying out the natural oils in the hide.

Wait 5-10 minutes for the protectant to bond, then perform a final buff with a clean microfibre. This ensures the wheel is not slippery. Avoid driving the vehicle for at least 30 minutes to allow the protection to fully cure to the surface.