11 min read 6 sections
Paint Protection intermediate

Deep Cleaning and Protecting Snorkels and Roof Racks

A professional-grade guide to decontaminating and protecting off-road accessories from harsh UV, red dust, and coastal salt spray.

Updated: 22 January 2026
Deep Cleaning and Protecting Snorkels and Roof Racks
AI Summary

This comprehensive guide provides a technical walkthrough for maintaining heavy-duty vehicle accessories like snorkels and roof racks.

01

The Importance of Accessory Maintenance in Extreme Climates

In the height of the Australian summer, vehicle accessories like snorkels and roof racks are subjected to some of the harshest environmental conditions on Earth. While often viewed as 'rugged' gear, the materials—typically UV-stabilised polyethylene for snorkels and powder-coated aluminium or steel for racks—are not invincible. The combination of 40°C+ ambient temperatures and intense UV radiation accelerates the leaching of plasticisers, leading to the 'chalky' white appearance common on neglected snorkels. Furthermore, the porous nature of textured plastics allows iron-rich red dust from the interior to become embedded, while coastal salt spray can initiate galvanic corrosion in rack mounting points and hardware. Neglecting these areas doesn't just hurt your vehicle's resale value; it can lead to structural failure of roof mounts or air intake leaks. By following this technical guide, you will not only restore the deep black aesthetic of your gear but also apply a sacrificial barrier that chemically bonds to the substrate, ensuring your setup survives the next trek across the Simpson or a season parked by the Pacific.

02

Required Equipment & Materials

Equipment Checklist

0/8
All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) / Degreaser — Concentrated professional grade (e.g., Koch Chemie GS or P&S Bomber). You will need roughly 500ml of diluted solution.
Boar's Hair Brushes — Essential for cleaning textured plastics without scratching. Use a 25mm brush for tight rack corners.
Pressure Washer with 40-degree nozzle — Electric or petrol; 1500-2000 PSI is ideal. Avoid high-pressure 'pencil' jets which can strip powder coating.
Iron Decontaminant (Fallout Remover) — 500ml of pH-neutral iron remover (e.g., Bowden's Own Wheely Clean or Gyeon Iron) to dissolve red dust minerals.
Plastic & Trim Restorer/Ceramic Coating — A dedicated trim coating like Gtechniq C4 or CarPro DLUX (30ml). Avoid silicone-based 'dressings' which attract dust.
Microfibre Wash Mitt & 5 Towels — 300-400 GSM towels. Use older towels for the snorkel as textured plastic can 'hook' and ruin high-pile fibres.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipe — 70% IPA solution for final surface de-greasing before applying protection.
Aerospace 303 Protectant (Optional) — Excellent for non-coating users; provides high UV shielding for rubber seals and snorkel heads.
03

Preparation and Assessment

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01

Cool Surface Check

Never clean accessories that are hot to the touch. In Australian summer, metal roof racks can reach 70°C, which will cause chemicals to flash and streak instantly. Move the vehicle into a shaded area or garage and allow at least 60 minutes for the surfaces to stabilise to ambient temperature.

02

Snorkel Intake Inspection

Check the snorkel head (ram air intake) for blockages such as leaves, dead locusts, or debris. Use a torch to inspect the first 20cm of the neck. If the intake has a pre-cleaner or sock, remove it now for separate cleaning. Ensure the drain valves at the bottom of the airbox are clear.

03

Chemical Dilution

Mix your APC according to the contamination level. For heavy red dust or coastal salt, use a 1:5 ratio (1 part product to 5 parts water). For regular maintenance, 1:10 is sufficient. Fill a dedicated foaming pump sprayer or trigger bottle to ensure even coverage.

04

Hardware Integrity Check

Before applying water, check the tension of the roof rack bolts and snorkel mounting brackets. Vibration from corrugated roads often loosens these. Tightening them now prevents water from seeping into mounting holes or roof channels during the high-pressure rinse phase.

04

The Deep Cleaning & Protection Process

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01

Initial High-Pressure Rinse

Rinse the roof rack and snorkel thoroughly from top to bottom. Focus on the 'T-slots' in the roof rack extrusions and the area where the snorkel meets the A-pillar. This removes loose grit and salt crystals that could cause scratching during the agitation phase. Use a sweeping motion at a distance of 30cm.

02

Iron Decontamination for Red Dust

Apply a pH-neutral iron remover to the entire snorkel body and roof rack. Red dust is high in iron oxide; the chemical will react and turn purple as it dissolves the mineral deposits. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. This step is critical for restoring the true black colour of the plastic.

03

APC Application

Generously spray your diluted APC (1:5) over the accessories. The surfactants will lift organic matter like bird droppings and crushed insects. In summer, work in sections (e.g., front half of the rack first) to prevent the cleaner from drying on the surface, which can cause permanent staining on powder coating.

04

Agitation with Boar's Hair Brush

Use the soft-bristled brush to work the APC into the grain of the snorkel's plastic and the crevices of the roof rack mounts. Use circular motions. The agitation is necessary to break the static bond of fine dust that pressure washing alone cannot remove. Pay special attention to the underside of the rack bars.

05

Secondary Rinse and Flood

Rinse away all chemicals using the pressure washer. Follow this with a 'flood' rinse using a hose without a nozzle. This allows the water to sheet off the surfaces, carrying away any remaining chemical residue from the internal channels of the roof rack where pressure jets might miss.

06

Drying and Moisture Removal

Dry the surfaces using a dedicated microfibre towel. For roof racks with complex channels, use a leaf blower or compressed air to blow water out of the bolt holes and T-tracks. Standing water in these areas can lead to 'tea staining' (early-stage corrosion) or unsightly water spots in the summer heat.

07

Solvent Wipe Down

Once dry, wipe the snorkel and rack with a 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any leftover surfactants or oils from your hands. This step is mandatory if you are applying a ceramic coating, as it ensures the coating can form a direct covalent bond with the substrate.

08

Ceramic Coating Application (Snorkel)

Apply 5-10 drops of a dedicated trim coating to a suede applicator block. Wipe onto the snorkel in small 10cm x 10cm sections. The plastic will darken immediately. Wait 1-2 minutes (refer to product specs), then lightly buff with a clean microfibre to level the high spots. This provides 12-24 months of UV protection.

09

Roof Rack Protection

For powder-coated racks, apply a high-temp synthetic sealant or a ceramic spray. If using a spray, apply to the cloth first rather than the rack to avoid overspray onto the roof glass. Ensure you coat the vertical mounts and the wind deflector, as these take the brunt of UV and stone impacts.

10

Hardware Lubrication

Apply a small amount of lanolin-based spray (like Lanotec) or marine-grade anti-seize to the threads of any exposed bolts. This is especially important for coastal drivers, as it prevents the stainless steel bolts from seizing into the aluminium rack (galvanic corrosion) due to salt air exposure.

Avoid Silicone-Based Dressings

Do not use cheap, greasy silicone 'tyre shines' or 'trim restorers' on your snorkel or roof rack. While they look good for an hour, they are 'wet' products that act as a magnet for red dust and sand. In high heat, these oils can also bake into the plastic, making it harder to clean properly in the future. Stick to ceramic-based sealants or dry-touch UV inhibitors.

Pressure Washer Proximity

Be extremely cautious when using a pressure washer around the snorkel intake head and the door seals where roof racks are mounted. Directing a high-pressure stream (above 2000 PSI) into the snorkel intake can force water past the water-separator and into the airbox, potentially dusting the engine or causing hydrolock if the engine is running.

Chemical Flashing in Heat

In temperatures exceeding 35°C, chemicals like iron removers and degreasers can dry (flash) on the surface in less than 60 seconds. Dried iron remover can leave permanent purple stains on light-coloured paintwork or etched spots on powder coating. Always work in the shade and keep the surface wet with a fine mist of water if necessary.

The 'Two-Brush' Technique

Professionals use two different brushes: a stiff nylon brush for the heavy textured 'orange peel' finish of a snorkel to dig out red dust, and a soft boar's hair brush for the smooth powder-coated surfaces of the roof rack to prevent marring. Using the stiff brush on the rack can leave fine scratches that dull the finish over time.

Cleaning T-Slot Tracks

Roof rack T-slots are notorious for holding salt and grit. Wrap a thin microfibre cloth around a flat-head screwdriver or a plastic trim tool and slide it through the channel to 'floss' out the debris. For Australian coastal conditions, doing this once a month prevents the accessory bolts from becoming impossible to move.

Bat Dropping Neutralisation

Summer in Australia brings increased bat activity. Bat droppings are highly acidic and can eat through powder coating in 48 hours. Keep a bottle of water and a high-lubricity quick detailer in the car to spot-clean these immediately. Never scrub them dry; soak them with a wet paper towel for 5 minutes first to soften the uric acid.

05

Long-Term Maintenance and UV Management

Maintaining your accessories requires a proactive approach, especially if the vehicle is stored outdoors. A ceramic-coated snorkel should be washed with a pH-neutral shampoo every fortnight to remove surface dust. You will know the protection is failing when water stops 'beading' on the plastic and instead 'sheets' or sticks to the surface. In the Australian climate, even the best ceramic coatings on textured plastic may require a 'top-up' every 6-9 months using a ceramic-infused quick detailer. For roof racks, inspect the leading edges for stone chips monthly. If the powder coating is chipped, sand the area lightly and touch it up with a zinc-rich cold galvanising paint or a matching black epoxy enamel to prevent rust from creeping under the rest of the coating. For those frequently visiting the beach, a thorough underbody and accessory rinse with a salt-neutralising solution (like Salt-Away) is mandatory after every trip to stop the accelerated oxidation of the rack's mounting hardware.

06

Common Issues & Solutions

My snorkel still looks grey and chalky after cleaning. What now?
This is likely 'UV oxidation' where the plastic has physically degraded. If a deep clean with APC doesn't work, you may need to use a dedicated trim restorer like Solution Finish, which contains black dye to penetrate the pores, followed by a ceramic coating to lock the colour in. Avoid 'heat gun' tricks as they draw oils to the surface and make the plastic brittle over time.
How do I remove 'tea staining' from my stainless steel rack bolts?
Tea staining is surface oxidation. Use a non-abrasive metal polish (like Autosol) and a microfibre cloth to rub the staining away. Once clean, apply a thin layer of wax or a ceramic coating to the bolt head. If the staining returns quickly, consider replacing the hardware with 316-grade stainless steel or applying a lanolin spray.
Red dust is stuck in the texture of my snorkel and won't budge. Help?
The dust is likely bonded with old waxes or oils. Use a stronger degreaser dilution (1:3) and a stiff-bristled scrubbing brush. If that fails, a clay bar can actually be used on textured plastic if used with plenty of lubricant, though it is tedious. The best solution is usually a repeated application of an iron fallout remover.
Can I go through an automatic car wash with my roof rack and snorkel?
It is highly discouraged. The large brushes in automatic washes can catch on snorkel heads or rack accessories (like shovel mounts), causing mechanical damage. Furthermore, the harsh chemicals used in 'touchless' washes are often highly alkaline, which can strip the oils out of your snorkel plastic and dull the powder coating on your rack.
The powder coating on my rack is peeling. Can I fix it?
Once powder coating begins to peel or 'delaminate,' it usually indicates moisture has trapped beneath it. You can sand back the affected area to bare metal, prime it with a rust-inhibiting primer, and use a high-quality matte or satin black spray paint. However, if the peeling is widespread, the rack may need professional sandblasting and re-coating.
My roof rack makes a whistling noise after cleaning. Why?
You may have accidentally removed or shifted the rubber 'buffer strips' that sit in the T-slots. These strips are essential for aerodynamics. Ensure they are pushed firmly into the channels and that there are no gaps. If the noise persists, check if the wind deflector (fairing) was bumped out of alignment during the cleaning process.

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