Deep Chemical Decontamination: A Guide to Iron Fallout Removal

In January's heat, you must never apply iron removers to a hot surface. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a professional-grade gazebo. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure panels are below 30°C. If the paint is hot to the touch, the chemical will flash-dry, potentially causing permanent staining or etching of the clear coat.

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash or foam cannon pre-wash using a high-pH 'strip wash' soap (like NV Snow or CarPro Lift). This removes topical dirt, oils, and waxes, allowing the iron remover to come into direct contact with the embedded metal particles. Rinse thoroughly and dry the vehicle completely to prevent water from diluting the iron remover.

Brake rotors are the primary source of iron contamination. Ensure wheels and brakes are stone-cold. Spraying cold chemicals onto hot rotors can cause warping or cracking. Use a hose to flood the wheel arches and rotors with water to sink the temperature before beginning the chemical phase.

Don your nitrile gloves and safety glasses. Iron removers have a distinct, pungent sulphur odour; if working in a confined garage, ensure high-volume ventilation or wear a basic vapour mask. Ensure you are wearing closed-toe shoes to protect against chemical runoff.

Divide the vehicle into manageable sections (e.g., bonnet, roof, side panels). Start from the bottom of the vehicle and work upwards, as the lower panels (behind wheels) typically harbour the highest concentration of ferrous contamination. Spray a liberal, even mist of the iron remover over the dry surface.

Allow the product to dwell for 3 to 5 minutes. You will observe a chemical reaction where the clear liquid turns deep purple or 'bleeds.' This is the iron particle being dissolved into a water-soluble complex. In high Australian humidity, watch closely to ensure the product does not dry.

For heavily contaminated vehicles, use a damp microfibre applicator or soft detailing brush to gently agitate the purple liquid. This helps the chemical penetrate deeper into larger particles. Do not apply pressure; let the chemistry do the work.

If the product begins to dry due to wind or heat, lightly mist the panel with a fine spray of water or more product. This reactivates the surfactants and prevents the dissolved iron from re-depositing and bonding to the paint as a stain.

Rinse the panel thoroughly with a pressure washer. Start from the top and work down, ensuring all purple residue is flushed from gaps, trim, and door handles. Spend extra time on the wheel arches and brake calipers where the chemical may have pooled.

On light-coloured cars (white/silver), inspect for remaining 'orange' specks. If purple bleeding still occurs after the first rinse, a second application on that specific area is required. This is common on vehicles that have never been decontaminated.

While the paint is still wet, use a clay bar or clay mitt with dedicated lubricant. The chemical step has removed the bulk of the metal, but claying will remove remaining non-ferrous contaminants like overspray, tree sap, and stubborn bug guts. This ensures a 'glass-smooth' finish.

Perform a final quick wash of the entire vehicle with a standard pH-neutral car shampoo. This ensures any remaining iron remover or clay lubricant residue is completely stripped away, leaving a bare, clean surface ready for protection.

Dry the vehicle using a dedicated blower or high-quality microfibre towel. Use a high-intensity LED torch to inspect the paint. The surface should be free of the 'sandpaper' feel when a finger is lightly run across it (test using a plastic sandwich bag over your hand for maximum sensitivity).

Open doors, boot, and bonnet. Often, iron remover runoff can seep into these areas. Wipe them down with a damp microfibre to ensure no chemical residue remains to etch the paint in hidden areas.