Comprehensive Weekly Maintenance Routine for Summer Conditions (Jan 2026)

Before applying any water or chemicals, check the temperature of the panels with the back of your hand. In an Australian summer, panels can exceed 60°C. If the metal is hot to the touch, move the vehicle into total shade and allow at least 30 minutes for the substrate to cool. Applying cold water to hot panels can cause thermal shock to glass and cause chemicals to flash-dry, leaving permanent streaks.

Always work in a shaded area, preferably under a carport or professional detailing gazebo. Avoid working under gum trees or 'She-oaks' as they drop sap and needles during wash cycles. Ensure you have adequate drainage to manage the runoff of red dust and soap suds in accordance with local council water restrictions.

Set up your two-bucket system. Fill Bucket A (Wash) with 15L of water and the manufacturer-recommended ratio of shampoo (typically 1:200). Agitate with a pressure wash stream to create a thick head of foam. Fill Bucket B (Rinse) with 15L of pure water. Having these ready prevents the 'panic' of soap drying on the car while you're looking for more water.

Walk around the vehicle and identify 'hot spots' such as dried bird droppings, bat guano, or heavy bug splatter on the front grill. Spray these specific areas with a pre-wash soaking agent or a diluted APC (All Purpose Cleaner) at a 10:1 ratio. This begins the chemical breakdown of proteins and acids before you physically touch the car.

Always start with the wheels. They are the dirtiest part of the car and contain abrasive metallic brake dust. Apply a pH-neutral wheel cleaner to cool rims. Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes (do not let dry). Use a barrel brush to clean the inner rim and a soft brush for the face. Rinse thoroughly. Starting here prevents splashing wheel grime onto clean paint later.

Rinse the entire vehicle with a high-pressure stream, starting from the roof and working down. Focus on wheel arches and door sills where coastal salt and outback dust accumulate. The goal is to remove 80% of loose grit before touching the paint, significantly reducing the risk of swirl marks.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire vehicle. In 35°C+ weather, work quickly and rinse after 2-3 minutes. The foam clings to the surface, encapsulating fine dust particles and lifting them away. This 'touchless' stage is critical in Australia to prevent the 'sandpaper effect' of fine dust being dragged across the clear coat.

Dip your wash mitt into the soapy Bucket A, then wash one panel at a time using straight-line motions (never circular). Start with the roof, move to the bonnet, then the upper sides. After each panel, rinse the mitt in Bucket B (Rinse) to release trapped grit, then reload with soap from Bucket A. This keeps your wash media clean throughout the process.

Check for remaining bug guts or bird droppings. If they didn't come off in the wash, do not scrub harder. Use a dedicated bug and tar remover. Apply, let sit for 60 seconds, and gently wipe. Excessive pressure on these spots will cause the sun-baked acids to scratch the softened clear coat.

Remove the nozzle from your hose and use a gentle 'sheeting' flow of water over the car. This technique uses surface tension to pull most of the water off the panels, leaving only small beads behind. This makes the drying process much faster and safer, reducing the amount of physical contact needed with the towel.

Using a clean, high-GSM microfibre drying towel, pat the car dry or pull the towel flat across the surface. Do not use a chamois (leather or synthetic), as they can trap grit and scratch the paint. Ensure all door jambs and boot seals are dried to prevent the 'hard water spots' common in many Australian municipal water supplies.

Clean exterior and interior glass with an ammonia-free glass cleaner. Ammonia can damage aftermarket window tints, which are nearly universal in Australia for heat rejection. Use two towels: one to apply and scrub, and a second dry 'waffle-weave' towel to buff to a streak-free finish.

Apply a spray sealant or 'drying aid' containing UV inhibitors (like Gyeon WetCoat or Bowden's Bead Machine). These take less than 5 minutes to apply but provide a sacrificial layer that absorbs UV radiation instead of your paint. Wipe over all exterior plastics to prevent the 'greying' effect caused by the sun.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing to the sidewalls. Unlike silicone-based 'tyre shines' that turn brown (sling) and attract red dust, water-based products provide a deep black finish and nourish the rubber, preventing the sidewall cracking common in hot, dry climates.

Quickly vacuum the carpets to remove sand and salt. Use a damp microfibre cloth to wipe down the dashboard and door cards. In summer, avoid 'shiny' interior dressings which can create a dangerous glare on the windscreen under the harsh midday sun; stick to matte-finish UV protectants.

Do a final walk-around with a bright LED torch or under the sun to check for streaks or missed spots. Check the 'drip points' under mirrors and door handles, as these often leak water that can cause unsightly mineral streaks if left to dry in the heat.