Comprehensive Sand and Salt Decontamination Guide (Jan 2026)

Never wash a vehicle that is hot to the touch, especially in 35°C+ heat. Move the vehicle into a shaded area or under a carport. Surface temperatures on dark paint can reach 70°C, which causes cleaning chemicals to flash-dry instantly, leading to permanent chemical etching. Allow the brakes and engine to cool for at least 45 minutes before applying water.

Before any water touches the car, remove all floor mats and loose items. Use a high-pressure air blow gun to dislodge sand from under seats and between the centre console. It is much easier to remove dry sand than wet sand, which clumps and sticks to carpet fibres. Spend at least 20 minutes on this dry extraction phase.

Prepare your salt neutraliser in a dedicated pump sprayer. If using a snow foam cannon, mix 100ml of foam concentrate with 900ml of warm water. Fill your two wash buckets with 15L of water each, adding 30ml of pH-neutral car shampoo only to the 'Wash' bucket. Ensure your pressure washer is connected to a stable water source to prevent cavitation.

Inspect the underbody and wheel arches with a torch. Identify areas where sand has 'caked' in mud or grease. Note the location of sensitive electronics or aftermarket breathers (on 4x4s) that should avoid direct high-pressure water contact.

Using an air compressor, start at the top of the vehicle. Blow air into window seals, door handles, fuel filler necks, and light housing gaps. You will be surprised how much sand is trapped in these 'hidden' areas. Removing it dry prevents it from dripping out later during the drying phase and scratching the paint.

Using an underbody water broom or a 40-degree nozzle, flush the chassis rails, suspension components, and the inside of the bumpers. Focus on 'trap points' where sand collects. Continue flushing until the water running out from under the car is completely clear of grit and brown tint. This usually takes 10-15 minutes of continuous rinsing.

Apply your salt neutralising solution to the entire lower third of the vehicle and the undercarriage. Leave it to dwell for 5-7 minutes. This chemical step is vital as it breaks down the ionic bond between the salt and the metal, which water alone cannot achieve.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam from the bottom up. The foam acts as a lubricant and an emulsifier. As the foam slides down the panel, it carries loose sand and salt safely to the ground. Let it dwell for 5 minutes, but do not allow it to dry on the paint.

Pressure wash the foam off, starting from the top. Use overlapping horizontal strokes. At this stage, you should have removed 95% of the abrasive sand without ever touching the paint with a mitt. This is the single most important step for preventing 'swirl marks'.

Use the two-bucket method to clean the remaining film. Dip your mitt in the soapy water, wash half a panel (no pressure), then rinse the mitt in the 'Rinse' bucket to drop any trapped grit before reloading with soap. Work from top to bottom.

Use a dedicated stiff brush and an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) to scrub the plastic liners of the wheel arches. Sand often hides behind the lip of the guard, which can lead to 'guard rot' if left untreated.

Open all doors and the tailgate. Use a damp microfibre cloth to wipe away sand from the rubber seals. Pay special attention to the bottom of the doors where drain holes are located; if sand blocks these, your doors will hold water and rust from the inside out.

Using a low-pressure mist, lightly rinse the engine bay to remove salt spray. Avoid direct pressure on the alternator or ECU. Apply a plastic protectant to hoses to prevent them from becoming brittle due to salt exposure.

Back inside, use the drill brush on the carpets. The vibration brings sand 'to the surface' from deep within the pile. Vacuum simultaneously. Repeat this process until you no longer hear the 'crunching' sound of sand being sucked into the vacuum nozzle.

Salt creates a stubborn film on glass. Use a dedicated glass cleaner and a waffle-weave microfibre. If the glass feels 'gritty', use a fine clay bar to remove embedded minerals.

Apply a high-quality Sio2 (Ceramic) sealant or a synthetic wax. This creates a sacrificial layer that makes it harder for sand and salt to bond to the surface during your next trip. In Australia, look for products with high UV inhibitors to combat the intense sun.