Comprehensive Red Dust Removal and Paint Decontamination Guide

Never apply chemicals to a hot car. In Australian summer, this means working under a carport or early in the morning. If the bonnet is hot to the touch, use a gentle stream of water to lower the panel temperature below 30°C before applying any cleaning agents to prevent flash-drying and chemical etching.

Before wetting the car, use compressed air or a leaf blower to blow out loose red dust from window seals, door jambs, and light clusters. Adding water to heavy red dust creates a thick mud that can be harder to wash out of tight crevices.

Prepare your snow foam at a 1:9 ratio (100ml product to 900ml water) in a foam cannon. Fill your wash buckets: one with clean water, one with a pH-neutral car shampoo. Ensure all tools are within reach to minimise the time the vehicle stays wet, reducing the risk of water spotting.

Use a torch to inspect the chassis rails and suspension components. Red dust often cakes in these areas, trapping moisture and salt. Pre-spray these areas with a diluted APC (1:5 ratio) to begin breaking down the heavy mud/dust buildup before the main wash.

Starting from the bottom and working up, rinse the vehicle thoroughly. Focus on the 'dirt traps': wheel arches, behind mudflaps, and inside the fuel door. This removes the bulk of the abrasive silica particles before any wash mitt touches the paint, significantly reducing the risk of swirl marks.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire vehicle. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but do not let it dry. The foam encapsulates the remaining fine dust particles, lifting them away from the surface. In 40°C heat, you may need to mist the foam with water to keep it active.

While the foam is on the car, use a soft detailing brush to gently agitate window trims, badges, and grilles. This is where red dust 'hides' and eventually streaks down the car after the first rain. Rinse the brush frequently in clean water.

Rinse the snow foam thoroughly. If the water running off the car is still orange/brown, repeat the snow foam step. Professional detailers often foam twice on outback vehicles to ensure a 100% grit-free surface before the contact wash.

Using a high-quality microfibre mitt, wash the car from the top down. Use the 'Two Bucket Method': dip in the soapy water, wash a panel, then rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket (with a grit guard) to release trapped dust before reloading with soap.

This is the critical step for red dust. Spray a dedicated Iron Remover onto the wet paintwork. Within 2-3 minutes, you will see 'bleeding' (purple streaks) as the chemical reacts with the embedded iron oxide. This converts the iron into a water-soluble state that can be rinsed away.

For heavily stained areas, use a damp microfibre applicator to gently spread the iron remover. This ensures the chemical reaches the bottom of the paint's pores. Do not let this chemical dry on the paint, especially on plastic trims or glass, as it can cause staining.

Rinse the vehicle for at least 5 minutes. Iron removers are acidic or highly reactive; you must ensure every trace is flushed from the panel gaps and door seals. Use plenty of water to dilute and wash away the purple residue.

If the paint still feels 'rough' to the touch (the 'plastic bag test'), use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This pulls out any remaining non-metallic contaminants like sap or baked-on salt. Fold the clay frequently to expose a clean surface.

Perform a final rinse. Use a large, clean microfibre drying towel to dry the car. In Australian summer, work quickly to prevent 'water spots' (mineral deposits) from forming. Using a drying aid or 'quick detailer' spray during this step can help the towel glide and add initial protection.

Once dry, apply a high-quality synthetic sealant. Unlike traditional carnauba waxes which melt at 60-70°C, synthetic sealants or ceramic sprays can withstand the 80°C+ panel temperatures of an Australian summer. This creates a 'sacrificial layer' that prevents future red dust from embedding.

Open all doors and the boot. Wipe down the inner sills and rubber seals with a damp microfibre. Red dust trapped in seals acts like sandpaper every time the door moves, eventually wearing through the paint to the bare metal.