Comprehensive Motorcycle Detailing and Protection Guide (Jan 2026)

Never wash a motorcycle with a hot engine. In Australian summer, an engine can retain heat for hours. Use an infrared thermometer or the 'back of hand' test (near, not on, the casing). Cold water on a hot engine can cause thermal shock, leading to cracked manifolds or warped discs. Ensure the bike has been stationary in the shade for at least 90 minutes.

Identify sensitive areas. Use painters' tape or cling wrap to cover exposed air filters (especially pod filters), exhaust outlets, and delicate aftermarket switchgear. For bikes with under-seat batteries, ensure the seat is securely latched or removed and the area covered. This prevents water ingress into the ECU and loom.

Prepare your buckets using the 'Two-Bucket Method'. Fill one bucket with 10L of water and 30-50ml of shampoo. Fill the second with plain water for rinsing the mitt. Pre-mix your citrus degreaser to a 4:1 ratio for heavy grime or 10:1 for light cleaning. Having these ready prevents chemicals from drying on the bike during the process.

Position the bike on a paddock stand if available. This allows you to rotate the wheels for full access to the rims and chain. Ensure you are working under a gazebo or in a garage. In 40°C heat, any chemical sprayed on the bike will flash (dry) in seconds, potentially causing permanent staining.

Before applying water, use low-pressure compressed air to blow out loose red dust from fins and crevices. In Outback conditions, adding water to heavy dust creates a 'mud paste' that acts as an abrasive. Removing the bulk of dry contaminants first significantly reduces the risk of swirl marks on soft clear coats.

Apply citrus degreaser to the chain, sprocket, and swingarm. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. Use a stiff-bristled 'grunge brush' to agitate the chain. This removes the 'Australian paste'—a mix of chain lube and fine sand that accelerates wear on your sprockets.

Spray an iron fallout remover onto the wheels. On motorcycles, brake dust is often baked on. Wait for the chemical to turn purple (indicating a reaction with iron). Use a soft wheel brush to reach the hub and behind the brake discs. Rinse thoroughly with a moderate pressure hose—avoid high-pressure jets near wheel bearings.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire bike. This encapsulates remaining grit and lubricates the surface. Let it dwell for 5 minutes. In high heat, you may need to mist the foam with a water bottle to keep it wet. This step is critical for 'touchless' cleaning of the engine's intricate cooling fins.

Rinse from the top down. Use a wide fan nozzle and keep it at least 30cm away from the bike. Be extremely careful around the radiator core; the delicate aluminium fins can be flattened by high-pressure water, leading to overheating issues during Australian summer rides.

Using a clean microfibre mitt, gently wash the tank, fairings, and seat. Use straight-line motions, not circles. Rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket after every panel to ensure you aren't rubbing trapped dirt back into the paint. This is the stage where you ensure all bug remains and bird droppings are fully emulsified and removed.

Use a long-reach boar's hair brush dipped in soapy water to scrub the engine block, cylinder heads, and exhaust headers. For stubborn 'yellowing' on chrome pipes, a dedicated metal polish may be needed later, but for now, focus on removing all organic matter and road film.

Perform a final flood rinse using a low-pressure hose (no nozzle) to allow the water to sheet off the paint. Inspect the 'fairing lowers' and under-tail for any missed grease or mud. Re-address these areas locally if necessary before the drying phase.

This is the most important step for motorcycles. Use a dedicated filtered air blower (like a BigBoi or even a leaf blower) to blast water out of bolt holes, spark plug wells, switchgear, and the radiator. This prevents 'weeping' water spots and stops internal corrosion of electrical contacts.

If the paint feels 'gritty' after washing, use a fine-grade clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This removes embedded industrial fallout and tree sap. On chrome, use a microfibre with a dedicated metal cleaner to remove oxidation and restore the mirror finish before sealing.

Apply a Si02-based ceramic sealant to all painted surfaces and hard plastics. These products offer high-temperature resistance (up to 300°C) and provide the best defense against Australian UV levels. Buff to a high shine using a fresh, edgeless microfibre towel.

Apply a non-greasy UV protectant to rubber hoses and plastic trim. IMPORTANT: Never apply any dressing to the tyre treads or the seat, as this creates a significant safety hazard by making surfaces slippery. Re-lube the chain using a high-quality dry-film lubricant suitable for dusty conditions.