Comprehensive Motorcycle Detailing and Paint Protection Guide

Never apply water or chemicals to a hot engine. Thermal shock can crack cast aluminium components or cause immediate chemical etching. Ensure the bike has been stationary for at least 2 hours. Touch the exhaust headers; they should be cool to the touch before proceeding.

Use low-tack automotive masking tape to cover ignition barrels, air intakes, and exposed electrical connectors. If your bike has an aftermarket 'pod' filter, wrap it in a plastic bag secured with a rubber band to prevent water ingress into the throttle bodies.

Prepare your spray bottles. For Australian summer conditions, dilute your All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) slightly more than usual (1:10) as the heat causes chemicals to react faster. Pre-mix your snow foam in the cannon at a ratio of 100ml product to 900ml warm water.

Position the bike on a paddock stand if available. This allows you to rotate the wheels for full cleaning access. Ensure you are working in a fully shaded area with a surface temperature below 30°C to prevent products from drying prematurely.

Before adding water, use a soft, dry brush or compressed air to blow out loose red dust from crevices. Wetting red dust immediately turns it into a gritty mud that can act like sandpaper if wiped. Focus on the radiator fins and under-seat areas.

Apply a dedicated chain cleaner or 1:4 APC to the rear sprocket and chain. Use a 'Grunge Brush' to agitate all four sides of the links. This prevents greasy 'fling' from contaminating your fresh paintwork later in the process. Rinse thoroughly with low pressure.

Spray Iron Remover onto cool wheels. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes until it turns purple, indicating the reaction with brake dust. Use a soft wheel brush to reach the hub and spokes. Do not let this dry; rinse immediately once the colour change is complete.

Coat the entire bike in a thick layer of snow foam. Allow it to dwell for 5 minutes. This encapsulates abrasive dirt and carries it off the surface. In 40°C heat, you may need to mist the foam with a water sprayer to keep it wet.

Using a microfibre wash mitt and two buckets (one with soap, one with clean rinse water), wash from top to bottom. Use very light pressure. Clean the mitt in the rinse bucket after every panel to ensure no grit is transferred back to the paint.

Once the bike is clean but still wet, use a clay bar and lubricant on the fuel tank and fairings. Glide the bar back and forth until the 'snagging' sensation stops. This removes embedded sap and fallout, leaving the surface 'glass-smooth'.

Use a leaf blower or dedicated car dryer to push water out of bolt holes, switchgear, and engine cooling fins. Towel-drying a bike often leaves streaks and cannot reach the areas where corrosion actually starts.

Wipe all painted and metal surfaces with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any remaining soap film or oils, ensuring the protection layer bonds directly to the substrate. This is the most critical step for coating longevity.

Apply 3-4 drops of ceramic coating to an applicator pad. Work in small 20cm x 20cm sections. Apply in a cross-hatch pattern. Wait for the 'flash' (the coating will look like an oil slick), usually 1-2 minutes depending on humidity, then level with a fresh microfibre.

Apply a UV-absorbing trim restorer to unpainted plastics and rubber hoses. This prevents the 'grey' fading common in Australian bikes. Use a product like Solution Finish for long-term restoration or 303 Aerospace Protectant for ongoing UV blocking.

Use a fine metal polish (like Autosol Aluminium Polish) on exposed exhaust headers or chrome. Apply with a microfibre applicator and buff to a mirror finish. This removes the 'golden' heat staining and provides a barrier against road salt.

Use a high-intensity LED torch to check for 'high spots' (dark, oily patches of unlevelled coating). If found within the first hour, they can be buffed off. Leave the bike to cure in a dry environment for at least 12 hours before riding.