Comprehensive Guide to Mechanical Decontamination: Clay Bar vs. Clay Mitt

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-foaming pH-neutral shampoo. Once rinsed, apply an iron remover to the wet paint. In Australian heat, work one panel at a time to prevent the product from drying. This chemical step dissolves metallic particles, reducing the amount of physical abrasion required during the claying phase.

Check the surface temperature of the panels. If the metal is too hot to touch (common in 35°C+ weather), the lubricant will flash off (evaporate) too quickly, leading to 'clay skipping' and heavy marring. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a high-clearance carport and allow the panels to cool to below 30°C.

If using a clay bar, cut it into two 50g pieces. Knead the clay into a flat disc roughly 5cm in diameter. If the clay is stiff due to air conditioning, soak it in a cup of warm water (approx 40°C) for 2 minutes to increase pliability. For clay mitts, ensure the polymer surface is clean and free of any debris from previous use.

Prepare your lubricant. If using a concentrate, mix with distilled water according to the manufacturer's ratio (often 1:10 for dedicated clay lubes). Distilled water is preferred in Australian coastal or outback areas to avoid mineral spotting from 'hard' tap water during the process.

Divide the vehicle into manageable 50cm x 50cm sections. Start from the top (roof) and work your way down. This prevents contaminants from the lower, dirtier panels (like sills) from being dragged onto cleaner upper panels.

Generously spray the section with lubricant. In Australian summer, use more than you think necessary. The surface should be 'dripping' wet to ensure the clay bar or mitt glides without any friction. Never attempt to clay a dry or lightly damp surface.

Place the clay bar or mitt on the surface. Using only the weight of your hand—zero downward pressure—glide the tool in straight, overlapping horizontal or vertical lines. Avoid circular motions, as these can create difficult-to-remove swirl marks if a piece of grit is trapped.

Listen closely. You will initially hear a 'hissing' or 'scratching' sound; this is the clay hitting the contaminants. As the particles are sheared off, the sound will disappear and the clay will glide silently. Once the resistance is gone, the section is clean.

Every 25cm x 25cm area, flip the clay bar over or fold it to reveal a fresh, clean surface. If using a clay mitt, rinse the mitt in a bucket of clean water to dislodge any picked-up debris. This is critical to prevent dragging old contaminants across new sections.

When the clay bar looks soiled, fold it in half and knead it until a clean face is formed. If the bar becomes saturated with red dust or dark fallout and cannot be folded to a clean spot, discard it immediately. Using a dirty bar will cause significant paint marring.

After completing a section, wipe away the lubricant residue with a clean, damp microfibre towel. Inspect the panel using a high-lumen torch or direct sunlight to check for any missed spots or marring. If the surface feels 'tacky', apply more lubricant and repeat.

Clay bars and mitts are excellent for removing water spots and overspray from glass. Use the same lubricated technique on the windscreen and side windows. Avoid textured plastic trim, as the clay can leave white residue in the pores that is difficult to remove.

Spend extra time on the panels behind the wheels and the rear bumper. These areas accumulate the most tar and road salt. Use a fresh piece of clay for these areas and discard it afterwards, as these sections contain the most abrasive grit.

Once the entire vehicle is completed, give it a final rinse. Dry the car thoroughly. Use an IPA wipe or a panel prep spray to remove any remaining lubricant oils. The paint should now feel 'squeaky' clean and perfectly smooth to the touch.