Comprehensive Exhaust Tip Restoration and Protection

Ensure the exhaust system is completely cold to the touch. In a 40°C summer, this may require the vehicle to be parked in a shaded garage for at least 2 hours. Applying chemicals to a hot exhaust will cause immediate flash-drying, which can lead to chemical etching and permanent staining of the metal.

Thoroughly rinse the tips with high-pressure water to remove loose red dust, sand, or salt. Failure to do this will result in these abrasive particles being dragged across the metal during the scrubbing phase, creating deep 'pigtail' scratches that are difficult to polish out.

Prepare your degreaser solution. For heavy soot common in diesel 4x4s, a 1:3 ratio is appropriate. For well-maintained petrol vehicles, 1:10 is sufficient. Mix these in a dedicated spray bottle and label them clearly.

Place a drip tray or cardboard beneath the exhaust tips. The runoff from iron removers and carbon cleaners is highly toxic to the environment and can stain driveway concrete or pavers. Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling chemical fumes.

Liberally spray the degreaser onto the exterior and as far into the interior of the tip as possible. Allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. This step emulsifies the oily binders that hold carbon soot to the metal. Use a stiff brush to agitate the inner walls.

Apply a pH-neutral iron remover to the tips. You will observe a purple colour change (the 'bleeding' effect) as the chemical reacts with sintered iron particles. This is crucial for vehicles driven in coastal areas where salt accelerates metallic oxidation. Dwell for 3 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

If the surface still feels gritty after chemical cleaning, use a dedicated clay bar. Lubricate the metal with soapy water and glide the clay over the surface until it feels smooth. This removes the final 'nibs' of contamination that would otherwise clog your polishing pads.

For heavy carbon buildup on the rim or inner edge, lubricate a small piece of 0000 steel wool with metal polish. Using light pressure, work in a circular motion. The polish acts as a lubricant while the ultra-fine steel wool shears off the hardened carbon. Constantly check your progress to ensure you aren't dulling the finish.

Apply a pea-sized amount of metal polish to a microfibre applicator. Work a 5cm x 5cm section at a time, using firm pressure. You should see the polish turn black; this is a chemical reaction indicating that the oxidized top layer of the metal is being removed. Continue until the blackening stops.

Switch to a clean microfibre cloth and a fresh, smaller amount of polish. Use lighter pressure and faster movements to 'buff' the metal. This refines the surface finish and brings out the maximum reflective clarity of the stainless steel or chrome.

Do not ignore the inside of the tip. Clean as far back as you can reach with a dedicated exhaust brush and degreaser. While you may not achieve a mirror finish inside, removing the thick soot prevents it from being blown back onto the clean exterior rim during the next drive.

After polishing, the metal will be covered in oils. Use a clean microfibre cloth to wipe away the bulk of the residue. Inspect the tips under a high-lumen torch to check for any missed spots or uneven hazy patches.

Spray 70% Isopropyl Alcohol onto a clean cloth and wipe the tips thoroughly. This 'strips' the surface of any remaining polishing oils, ensuring that your chosen sealant or ceramic coating can bond directly to the metal for maximum longevity.

Apply a high-temperature ceramic coating or metal sealant. These products are designed to withstand the heat of the exhaust. Apply in a thin, even layer, allow to flash (usually 30-60 seconds depending on humidity), and buff off with a fresh microfibre. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that repels water, salt, and soot.

Most high-temp coatings require a 'cure' time. Avoid driving the vehicle or getting the exhaust wet for at least 12 hours. In the heat of summer, curing happens faster, but keeping the car in a garage is vital to prevent dust from settling into the wet coating.