Comprehensive Clay Bar Decontamination Guide

The vehicle must be thoroughly washed using the two-bucket method and a high-lubricity car shampoo. Ensure all loose dirt, 특히 (especially) red dust from crevices and salt spray, is removed. If you clay a dirty car, you will drag grit across the paint, causing severe scratches. Dry the vehicle completely to prevent water spots during the claying process.

Spray a dedicated Iron Remover on the wheels and lower body panels. Wait 3-5 minutes for the product to react (turning purple) with metallic fallout. Rinse thoroughly. This step reduces the workload on the clay bar and prevents the clay from becoming saturated with metal shards too quickly.

Choose a shaded area with a surface temperature below 30°C. In Australian summer, the metal panels can reach 70°C in direct sun, which will cause the lubricant to flash (evaporate) instantly, leading to the clay sticking and melting onto the paintwork. If working outdoors, work early in the morning.

Cut your 100g clay bar into 4 equal pieces. Take one piece and knead it in your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. Flatten it into a disc roughly 5cm in diameter. Keep the other pieces in a sealed container with a splash of lubricant to keep them fresh.

Work in small sections, approximately 40cm x 40cm. Generously spray the clay lubricant over the section and onto the face of the clay disc. In dry, windy conditions, use more lubricant than you think is necessary to ensure the clay glides effortlessly.

Place the clay disc on the lubricated surface. Using only your fingertips and light pressure, move the clay in straight, overlapping horizontal or vertical lines. Never use circular motions, as these can create deeper 'pigtail' scratches if a large particle is caught.

As you move the clay, you will hear a 'hissing' or scratching sound and feel resistance. This is the clay bar physically grabbing the contaminants. Continue the linear motions until the clay glides silently and smoothly across the panel with zero resistance.

After completing each 40cm section, flip the clay over and inspect the face. In Australia, you will often see brown staining (dust/pollen) or black specks (exhaust soot/tar). If the clay looks soiled, it is time to fold and knead it to reveal a fresh, clean surface.

Fold the clay disc in half so the dirty side is internal, then knead it back into a flat disc. This encapsulates the contaminants inside the clay and brings clean clay to the surface. If the clay becomes too stiff, dip it in warm water (not hot) to regain pliability.

Once a section is smooth, use a clean microfibre towel to wipe away the excess lubricant. Inspect the area under a strong light source (or the sun) to ensure no clay residue or 'streaking' remains. The paint should feel as smooth as a new glass bottle.

For thick tree sap (common from Eucalypts) or road tar, do not apply more pressure. Instead, hold the clay over the spot for 10 seconds to allow the lubricant to dwell, then use short, rapid strokes. If it persists, use a dedicated tar remover before continuing.

Clay is not just for paint. Use the same technique on the windscreen and side windows to remove water spots and salt film. It also works wonders on poly-carbonate headlights to remove surface oxidation before it turns yellow.

Save the lower sections of the car (behind wheels) for last. These areas contain the most abrasive grit. Use a dedicated piece of clay for these sections and discard it afterward; never use 'bottom-of-the-car' clay on the bonnet or roof.

Once the entire vehicle is completed, perform a final rinse with water to remove any hidden lubricant in gaps. Perform the 'plastic bag test': put your hand inside a thin sandwich bag and run it over the paint. The plastic amplifies any remaining imperfections.