Table of Contents
This guide provides a systematic, professional-grade approach to cleaning and protecting caravans, motorhomes, and camper trailers.
The Importance of Specialist Caravan Care
Maintaining a caravan or camper in Australia is significantly more challenging than standard vehicle care due to the sheer surface area and the diversity of materials involved, including gelcoat, fibreglass, chequer plate, and acrylic windows. During the peak of summer, surface temperatures on a caravan can exceed 70°C, causing organic contaminants like bird droppings and bat guano to etch into the finish within hours. Neglecting these surfaces leads to rapid oxidation, where the gloss finish turns chalky and porous. Once gelcoat oxidises, it becomes a magnet for the iron-rich red dust found in Central Australia and the Pilbara, which can permanently stain the substrate if not professionally managed. Furthermore, coastal salt spray is a silent killer for chassis components and aluminium joins, leading to 'white rust' and structural electrolysis. By following this technical guide, you will not only restore the aesthetic appeal of your rig but also create a sacrificial barrier against UV radiation and chemical etching. This process ensures that seals remain supple to prevent water ingress—the leading cause of caravan write-offs—and maintains the maximum possible resale value in a competitive market. Expect a finish that sheds water effortlessly and resists the 'black streaks' common on poorly maintained recreational vehicles.
Technical Equipment and Material Requirements
Equipment Checklist
Pre-Cleaning Preparation and Safety
Site Selection and Cooling
Position the caravan in full shade if possible. If working outdoors in 35°C+ heat, you must work in sections. Never apply chemicals to a hot surface. Use a hose to flood the panels and chassis to lower the surface temperature below 30°C before applying any cleaning agents.
Seal and Vent Inspection
Close all windows and ensure roof hatches are locked down. Check the integrity of the Sikaflex or silicone seals around the air conditioner and solar panels. If seals are visibly cracked, avoid direct high-pressure water in those areas to prevent internal water damage.
Chemical Dilution
Prepare your wash buckets. Use a ratio of 50ml shampoo to 10L of water. For the snow foam cannon, use a 1:9 ratio (100ml product to 900ml water). If dealing with heavy red dust, prepare a separate spray bottle of iron remover at full strength.
Electrical Isolation
Disconnect the 240V mains power lead and ensure the battery isolator is off if you are cleaning near external power inlets or the battery box. Ensure the Anderson plug and 12-pin trailer plug are tucked away or covered to prevent terminal corrosion.
The Professional Multi-Stage Wash Process
Underbody and Chassis Flush
Start from the bottom. Use a high-pressure washer to flush the chassis rails, leaf springs, and brake assemblies. In coastal areas, pay particular attention to the 'V' joins where salt accumulates. This prevents salt from dripping down onto cleaned panels later.
Dry Iron Decontamination
On a dry but cool surface, spray iron remover on the lower 1/3 of the caravan and the drawbar. Leave for 3-5 minutes. The chemical will turn purple as it reacts with red dust and brake iron. Do not let it dry; rinse thoroughly with high pressure.
Snow Foam Application
Apply a thick layer of snow foam starting from the bottom and working up. This allows the surfactants to dwell on the dirtiest areas longer. The foam encapsulates abrasive grit, lifting it away from the surface to prevent scratching during the contact wash.
The Roof Clean
Using your telescopic pole and the foam already on the roof, gently agitate the solar panels and roof membrane. Always clean the roof first so that the dirt flows down onto unwashed panels, rather than ruining a clean side wall later.
Contact Wash (Two-Bucket Method)
Using a soft microfiber mitt, wash one panel at a time using horizontal strokes. Dip the mitt in the 'rinse' bucket after every pass to remove grit before reloading with soap. Start from the top and work down to the waistline.
Address Black Streaks
For persistent black streaks (caused by window seal runoff), use a dedicated streak remover or a diluted APC. Apply to a microfiber cloth and wipe gently. Do not scrub hard, as this can thin the paint or gelcoat on budget-oriented caravans.
Acrylic Window Care
Acrylic windows are incredibly soft. Never use a brush on them. Use a fresh, clean microfiber mitt and very light pressure. Rinse immediately. If scratches are present, these will be addressed in the polishing phase after drying.
Final Rinse and Sheet
Remove the nozzle from your hose and let a steady stream of water 'sheet' down the panels. This 'flooding' technique uses surface tension to pull 80% of the water off the caravan, making the towel-drying process much faster.
Critical Drying
Use large microfiber drying towels to pat the surface dry. In Australian summer heat, water spots (calcium deposits) can etch into the surface in minutes. Dry the windows first, then the flat panels, followed by the chequer plate.
Seal and Tyre Condition
Apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to all window seals, door seals, and tyre sidewalls. This product provides SPF 40 protection. Wipe on, let sit for 2 minutes, and buff dry. This is vital for preventing the 'chalking' of rubber in the sun.
Chequer Plate Brightening
If your aluminium chequer plate is dull, apply a dedicated metal polish using a foam applicator. Work in small sections (30x30cm) and buff off immediately. This removes the oxidation caused by road salt and moisture.
Protection Application
Apply a high-quality ceramic sealant or a marine-grade wax. For caravans, a spray sealant (e.g., Gyeon CanCoat) is most efficient due to the surface area. This provides a hydrophobic layer that makes the next clean 50% faster.
Avoid High Pressure on Seals
Keep high-pressure spray nozzles at least 30cm away from window seals, fridge vents, and door joins. The 2500+ PSI generated by many washers can force water past rubber gaskets or even delaminate older decals, leading to internal mould and structural rot.
Never Wash in Direct Midday Sun
In Australian summer conditions, cleaning chemicals and water will evaporate almost instantly on hot panels. This leaves behind concentrated chemical residues and mineral deposits (water spots) that can only be removed by machine polishing. Always wash early morning or late evening.
Ladder Safety and Roof Loading
Never walk on a caravan roof unless you are certain it is a 'walk-on' rated roof with a reinforced internal structure. Even then, wet roofs are incredibly slippery. Use a stable platform ladder and a telescopic brush to avoid the risk of falls or crushing the roof skin.
The 'Wet-Down' Technique
In temperatures over 30°C, keep the entire caravan wet by periodically misting the panels you aren't currently working on. This prevents 'flash drying' and ensures that any soap suds don't bake onto the finish, which is a common cause of streaking on white aluminium panels.
Managing Red Dust in Crevices
For red dust trapped in awning arms and window tracks, use a soft-bristled detailing brush and a vacuum first, before getting it wet. Once red dust gets wet, it turns into a staining mud that is much harder to extract from tight tolerances.
Protecting Solar Efficiency
A thin layer of dust can reduce solar output by up to 30%. After washing, wipe solar panels with a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water. This removes any soap film, ensuring maximum charging efficiency for your batteries during off-grid stays.
Long-Term Maintenance and Protection
To maintain the results of a deep clean, you should perform a 'maintenance wash' every 4-8 weeks, depending on your proximity to the coast. In Australia, the UV index is so high that even the best waxes will only last 2-3 months. If the caravan is stored outdoors, consider a high-quality, breathable cover—but only apply it to a perfectly clean vehicle to avoid wind-induced scratches. Check your roof seals every 6 months; if the sealant feels brittle or shows separation, it requires immediate attention. A key sign that your protection has failed is 'water pooling' on the roof or sides. If water does not bead and roll off, the UV protection is gone, and the gelcoat is vulnerable to oxidation. Re-applying a spray sealant every 3 months is the most cost-effective way to ensure your caravan remains in showroom condition for years.
Common Challenges and Solutions
What if the 'black streaks' won't come off with soap?
The gelcoat still looks chalky after washing, what now?
How do I remove heavy red dust staining from white plastic?
My acrylic windows are foggy/scratched, can they be saved?
What is the best way to clean the awning fabric?
The chequer plate is staying dull even after polishing?
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