Comprehensive Beach and Coastal Interior Aftercare Guide

Never attempt deep interior cleaning in direct Australian sunlight. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a high-clearance carport. If the interior temperature exceeds 35°C, open all doors and allow the cabin to cool for 20 minutes. Applying chemicals to hot plastics causes flash-drying, which can lead to permanent chemical staining or 'tiger-striping' on the dashboard.

Remove all personal items, child seats, and floor mats. Take the floor mats to a concrete area. If they are rubber (e.g., Sandgrabba or WeatherTech), pressure wash them separately and allow them to dry in the sun. If carpeted, beat them vigorously with a plastic spatula to loosen 'embedded' sand before vacuuming.

Before introducing any moisture, use compressed air or the exhaust port of your vacuum to blow out the 'dead zones'—under the seats, inside the seat rails, and between the centre console. This prevents sand from turning into 'mud' once liquid cleaners are applied later in the process.

Prepare your Salt Neutraliser in a dedicated spray bottle at a ratio of 1:30. Prepare your interior cleaner at a 1:10 ratio for light duty or 1:5 for heavy grime. Using demineralised water (available at Coles/Woolworths) prevents calcium spotting on dark interior plastics.

Using a cordless drill with a soft white brush attachment, agitate the carpeted floor sections. The vibration brings deeply embedded sand to the surface. Vacuum simultaneously. Spend at least 5 minutes per footwell; if you still see sand 'dancing' on the carpet surface while the drill is running, you haven't finished extraction.

The metal rails are the first to rust. Wipe them down with a microfibre dampened with Salt Neutraliser. Use a Q-tip to get into the bolt heads. This is critical for 4WDs that have seen beach work, as salt air settles in these low points.

Salt spray travels in the air (aerosolised). Lightly mist a microfibre towel with Salt Neutraliser and wipe the headliner and sun visors. Do not spray directly onto the headliner, as this can weaken the glue and cause sagging—a common issue in high-heat Australian climates.

Apply pH-neutral cleaner to a brush, work into a lather on the plastic surfaces, and wipe away. Follow immediately with a second wipe using a towel dampened with the Salt Neutraliser to ensure no salt film remains. This prevents the 'sticky' feel often found in coastal cars.

Sand acts like a diamond-cutter on leather. Use a dedicated leather brush and cleaner to lift sand from the grains and stitching. If the leather feels 'stiff', it likely has salt trapped in the fibres. Use a damp, warm cloth to 'open' the pores before cleaning.

The rubber door seals trap salt and sand, which then abrades the paintwork. Wipe all rubber seals with the salt neutraliser. Apply a thin coat of Aerospace 303 to the seals to keep them supple and prevent them from baking onto the metal in 40-degree heat.

Interior glass develops a hazy 'salt film'. Use a dedicated automotive glass cleaner (ammonia-free). Clean once to remove the film, and a second time with a fresh towel to ensure streak-free clarity. Don't forget the very top edge of the window by rolling it down slightly.

The driver's pedals often harbour the most salt from your shoes. Use a stiff brush and the salt neutraliser solution to scrub the rubber pads and metal stalks. Dry thoroughly to prevent foot slip.

Use a toothpick or a detailing 'clay' bar to remove sand trapped in the seams of the gear shifter boot and window switches. Sand in switches can cause electrical failure over time.

Once all surfaces are clean and dry, apply a UV protectant to all vinyl and plastic. Spread evenly and 'buff' dry with a clean microfibre. In Australia, a 'matte' finish is preferred to reduce dashboard glare during high-noon driving.

If a 'salty' or 'fishy' smell persists, place an odour absorber (like activated charcoal) under the seat for 48 hours. Avoid heavy 'perfume' sprays which just mask the organic decay.

Use a bright LED torch to inspect under the seats and in the corners of the footwells. If any 'white' crystalline residue is visible, repeat the salt neutralisation step in that area.