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Clean Your Snorkel and Roof Rack the Right Way

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Don't let red dust and salt air rot your expensive accessories. This checklist covers the gear and steps you need to keep your setup looking mint and working properly.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 5 March 2026
Clean Your Snorkel and Roof Rack the Right Way

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, cleaning a 4x4 isn't just about making the paint shine. After 15 years in the trade, I've seen way too many blokes ignore their snorkels and racks until the plastic fades or the bolts seize up. Whether you've been doing a lap or just haven't washed the beach salt off lately, this is the checklist I use in my shop to get it done properly.

01

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
A decent ladder or sturdy step stool — Don't stand on your tyres, I’ve seen a mate slip and do his wrist in. Not worth it.
Soft-bristle detailing brush — Something like a Boar’s hair brush or a dedicated wheel brush for the tight spots.
All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) or Snow Foam — I reckon Bowden’s Own Agent Orange is a cracker for shifting red dust.
Trim Dressing (UV Rated) — Meguiar’s Ultimate Black is my go-to. Most cheap stuff just runs off in the rain.
Microfibre wash mitt and drying towels — Keep these separate from your paint towels so you don't transfer grit.
Pressure washer or hose with a good nozzle — Don't go full blast on the snorkel intake though.
Non-acidic bug remover — Essential if you've been driving through the Riverina at dusk.
Small vacuum with crevice tool — For getting the dead flies out of the snorkel head.
02

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Check for loose mounting bolts — Give the rack a good shake. Better to find a loose bolt now than on the highway.
Inspect snorkel intake for blockages — I once found a bird's nest in a LandCruiser snorkel. True story.
Cool to the touch — Make sure the rack isn't 60°C from sitting in the sun or your cleaner will just bake on.
Check for cracked seals — Look where the snorkel meets the guard. If it's perished, don't spray water directly at it.
03

The Step-by-Step Clean

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Dry Vacuum/Deep Clean Snorkel Head

Pop the grill off the snorkel. Vacuum out the leaves and dead bugs before you get them wet and turn them into a muddy mess.

02

Initial Rinse

Blast away the loose salt and dust. Focus on the underside of the rack channels where salt loves to hide out of sight.

03

Apply Cleaner

Spray your APC or bug remover onto the snorkel and rack. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry. (Seriously, don't).

04

Agitate with Brush

Use your soft brush to get into the T-slots on the rack and the textured plastic of the snorkel. This shifts that stubborn red dirt.

05

Thorough Rinse

Rinse from the top down. Pay attention to the snorkel's water drain holes, make sure they aren't plugged up with gunk.

06

Dry and Protect

Dry everything with a towel. Apply a UV protectant to the plastic. I learned the hard way on a black Commodore, if you skip this, the sun will kill the plastic in months.

04

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/3
Check for 'tiger stripes' — Look for drip marks on the paint from the rack. Wipe them off now or they'll be a pain later.
Ensure snorkel grill is snapped back in — Nothing worse than losing your intake grill on the M1.
Verify T-slot cleanliness — Run a finger through the rack channels. If it's still gritty, give it another quick rinse.

Watch Out

Don't use 'tyre shine' on your snorkel. It looks alright for five minutes, but it's a dust magnet and will turn your intake into a greasy mess. Also, never point a high-pressure washer directly into the snorkel intake unless you want to see how your air filter handles a litre of water at 2000 PSI.

Expert Tip

If you've got a powder-coated rack that's looking a bit chalky, try a ceramic spray sealant like Gtechniq C2. It's way easier than waxing and stops that white oxidation from coming back so fast.

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