Choosing Between Wax and Sealant for the Aussie Sun

Wash the car thoroughly using the two-bucket method. Use a bit more soap than usual to help strip old waxes. Don't do this in the midday sun or you'll get water spots before you can even grab a towel.

Spray an iron remover over the dry paint. If it turns purple, it's working. This removes the metallic fallout that 'bites' into your paint. Rinse it off properly.

Run your hand over the paint. If it feels like sandpaper, you need to clay it. Use plenty of lubricant. If you skip this, your wax or sealant is just sitting on top of dirt, and it won't last a month.

Use a dedicated large microfibre drying towel. I like to use a bit of compressed air or a leaf blower to get the water out of the wing mirrors and badges. Nothing ruins a wax job like a drip of water running down the panel later.

Give the whole car a wipe with an IPA solution. This removes any leftover soaps or lubricants. You want the paint 'naked' so the sealant can bond directly to the clear coat.

Cover your black plastic trims and rubber seals. Most waxes and sealants leave ugly white stains on textured plastic that are a massive pain to get off later.

If the bonnet is too hot to touch, don't even bother. The product will flash off (dry) instantly and be a nightmare to buff. Aim for a cool garage or early morning/late arvo.

Apply 3-4 pea-sized drops of sealant or a small amount of wax to your foam applicator. Don't go overboard; thinner is better.

Start with a small area, say half a bonnet or one door. Don't try to do the whole car at once unless the product specifically says you can.

Apply in a cross-hatch pattern (up and down, then side to side). This ensures 100% coverage. If you just rub in circles, you'll miss bits.

Wait for the product to 'haze' over. This usually takes 5-10 minutes depending on the humidity. It should look slightly cloudy.

Run a clean finger through the haze. If it smears, it's not ready. If it wipes away clean and shows shiny paint, it's time to buff.

Using a clean, plush microfibre, gently buff away the residue. Don't scrub, let the towel do the work. Flip the towel frequently.

Go over the section again with a completely fresh towel to make sure there are no 'high spots' or oily streaks left behind.

Move to the next panel, making sure to overlap slightly with the previous one so you don't leave any gaps.

Get down low and use your torch. It's easy to miss the bottom of the doors or the back bumper. I've missed the lower sills on my missus' car before and she never lets me hear the end of it.

Most sealants need 12-24 hours to 'cure' before they get wet. If it rains 2 hours after you finish, the protection will be compromised. Check the weather forecast first!

If you're using a sealant, waiting 24 hours and adding a second coat ensures you didn't miss any spots and builds a thicker layer of protection.