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Autumn Protection Checklist: Prepping for the Cooler Months

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Don't wait for the first winter frost to realise your paint is copping it. Use this checklist to strip away the summer dust and seal your car against the upcoming coastal salt and rain.

D"M
Dave "Davo" Mitchell Off-Road & 4WD Specialist
| Updated: 3 March 2026
Autumn Protection Checklist: Prepping for the Cooler Months

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've spent 15 years in the bays and the biggest mistake I see is blokes waiting until winter hits to protect their car. By then, the summer UV has already started oxidising the clear coat and those bat droppings from January have etched permanent rings into your bonnet. This checklist is about stripping the summer grime and getting a solid layer of protection down while the weather is still decent. It's practical, fast, and will save you a heap of polishing work come springtime.

01

The Essential Gear List

What You'll Need

0/8
Decontamination Soap — Something like Bowden's Own Snow Job or a heavy-duty wash to strip old waxes.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — Essential if you've been driving through red dust or near the coast.
Iron Remover — Don't skip this. It gets the metallic fallout off before it rusts in winter rain.
Quality Paint Sealant — I reckon Gtechniq C2V3 or Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic are the go-to for durability.
Two Buckets with Grit Guards — If you aren't using grit guards by now, we need to have a serious talk.
Microfibre Drying Towel — A big thirsty one. Chamois are old school and usually just scratch the paint.
Tyre Dressing — Something water-based so it doesn't sling all over your clean guards.
Glass Cleaner — Go for an ammonia-free one so you don't cook your window tint.
02

Pre-Start Sanity Check

What You'll Need

0/4
Check the shade — Never work in direct sun. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, the soap dried in seconds and left spots I had to machine polish out.
Touch-test the panels — If the bonnet is too hot to keep your hand on, go grab a cuppa and wait for it to cool down.
Inspect for 'surprises' — Check for bat droppings or sap. These need a soak with a wet towel before you start scrubbing.
Wheel check — Are they cool? Spraying wheel cleaner on hot rotors is a recipe for warped discs.
03

The Step-by-Step Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

The Heavy Rinse

Blast every inch. Get into the arches and under the sills to get that summer red dust and coastal salt out before you touch it with a mitt.

02

Iron Decon

Spray your iron remover on dry paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 mins but don't let it dry. Watch it turn purple, that's the hidden nasties dissolving.

03

Contact Wash

Two-bucket method here. Start from the top and work down. Rinse your mitt after every panel. No dramas, just take your time and don't miss the sills.

04

Clay Bar Session

If the paint feels like sandpaper, it needs a clay. Use plenty of lube. A customer once brought in a Hilux covered in overspray, clay saved it.

05

Dry it Properly

Use a dedicated drying towel. Don't use the missus's old bath towels, they're too rough and will scour the finish. Blow out the mirrors if you can.

06

Apply Protection

Chuck on your sealant. Personally, I prefer a ceramic-based spray sealant for winter because it sheds water like a duck. Follow the bottle instructions to the letter.

07

Glass and Tyres

Clean the glass inside and out. Apply a rain repellent to the windscreen. Finish with tyre shine, because a clean car with brown tyres looks rubbish.

04

Final Walk-around

What You'll Need

0/3
Check door jambs — Wipe away any drips so they don't leave streaks later.
Inspect for high spots — Look at the sealant from an angle. If it looks greasy, buff it again with a fresh microfibre.
Wiper blade check — Run a damp cloth down the blades. If they're cracked from the summer heat, bin 'em and get new ones before the rain starts.

Watch Out

Don't bother with 'Wash and Wax' products for this job. They're alright for a weekly tickle, but for seasonal protection, they just don't have the guts to last through a wet winter. Also, if you've got bird crap on the paint, don't scrub it dry. You'll scratch the clear coat deeper than a kookaburra's laugh.

Detailer's Secret

If you've been outback and the red dust is everywhere, use an air compressor to blow out the window seals and light clusters before you wash. If you don't, that red mud will bleed out for weeks every time it rains.

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