Advanced Paint Correction and Polishing Techniques

Start with a thorough wash using a high-pH strip soap to remove old waxes. Apply an Iron Remover (pH neutral) to the entire body. In Australia, brake dust and industrial fallout bond quickly to paint. The chemical reaction will turn purple; rinse thoroughly after 3-5 minutes, ensuring the product does not dry on the surface in the heat.

Using a clay bar and ample lubricant, glide the bar over the paint in straight lines. This removes embedded red dust and salt crystals that a wash cannot touch. If you skip this, these particles will get caught in your polishing pad and scour the paint, creating deeper scratches. The surface should feel 'glass smooth' to the touch.

Apply automotive masking tape to all unpainted plastics, rubber window seals, and badges. Polishing compounds contain abrasives and oils that permanently whiten and degrade porous Australian plastics. Masking also prevents 'sling' (polish splatter) from entering hard-to-reach crevices.

Use a Paint Depth Gauge to check the thickness of the clear coat across various panels. Modern vehicles often have only 100-120 microns of total thickness. If a panel reads below 80 microns, avoid heavy compounding. Set up your LED inspection lights at a 45-degree angle to the panel to highlight the 'spiderweb' scratches common on sun-damaged cars.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Work it into the foam with your fingers to ensure even coverage. This 'priming' prevents dry buffing, which causes heat build-up—a critical failure point when working in Australian summer temperatures.

Divide the panel into a manageable 50cm x 50cm square. Do not try to polish an entire door or bonnet at once. Small sections allow for better heat management and more consistent abrasive breakdown. In high humidity, reduce the section size slightly to prevent the compound from drying out.

Before turning the machine on, dab the pad across your 50cm section. Set the DA polisher to its lowest speed (Setting 1) and spread the compound evenly. This ensures you don't 'sling' product across the garage and provides a uniform starting layer.

Increase speed to Setting 4 or 5. Apply moderate downward pressure (approx. 3-5kg). Move the machine slowly in a cross-hatch pattern (horizontal then vertical). Move at a rate of 2-3cm per second. In heat exceeding 30°C, monitor the panel temperature with the back of your hand; it should feel warm, never hot.

Watch the compound as you work. It will start as an opaque film and gradually turn into a translucent, oily residue. This indicates the abrasives have broken down and done their job. Continuing to buff after this point can cause 'dry buffing' and marring.

Wipe the section with a clean, high-GSM microfibre towel. Spray the area with a Panel Prep/IPA solution to dissolve polishing oils. Use your LED light to inspect the results. If swirls remain, repeat the process. If the surface is clear but slightly hazy, you are ready for the finishing stage.

Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This stage uses higher machine speeds (Setting 5) but very light pressure. The goal is to remove the 'micro-marring' from the heavy compound and produce the maximum possible gloss. This is essential for dark-coloured vehicles common in the city.

Paint is naturally thinner on edges and sharp body lines. Reduce pressure and speed when approaching these areas. Hold the polisher so the pad rotation pulls away from the edge, not into it, to avoid 'burning' through the clear coat.

After every section, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out spent polish and removed paint particles. A clogged pad generates more heat and loses its cutting efficiency. In dusty areas, this step is vital to ensure no red dust has contaminated your work surface.

Once the entire vehicle is polished, perform a final wipe down with a fresh microfibre and a liberal amount of Panel Prep. This ensures the surface is chemically pure. Any remaining oils will prevent your chosen wax, sealant, or ceramic coating from bonding, leading to premature failure in the sun.